This past New Year’s Eve, we decided to break with tradition for our annual party and settled on simply attending a wine tasting. Wine tasting? On New Year’s Eve? Well, we were a little “cooked” out from all day food preparation on Thanksgiving and since our annual parties have shrunk in attendance over the past several years, we decided to take a break from the usual kitchen slavery. As an added benefit, it is easier to clean the house and visit the family burial plots for sake with Ojiichan and Otoosan and flowers and kaki for Obaachan without having to worry about a party. But who’s having a wine tasting on the Eve? Master Sommelier Chuck Furuya of Vino of course!
At the request of several “regulars” at Vino, Chuck decided to seek out perfectly aged gems that would be a nice way to close out the year. And for all intents and purposes, 2009 needed to be closed out ASAP. Other than President Obama’s inauguration, there wasn’t much offered by my own Year of the Ox. Therefore Chuck selected five wines that represented the best of the wine world from New World to Old World, white wine to red wine starting at 9pm. A dinner would follow of Chef Keith Endo’s own creations served communal table style like done in many parts of Europe. There would even be time to return home to experience the “glory” of illegal aerial fireworks… not that I have a desire to experience downtown Beirut at the height of war.
At the request of several “regulars” at Vino, Chuck decided to seek out perfectly aged gems that would be a nice way to close out the year. And for all intents and purposes, 2009 needed to be closed out ASAP. Other than President Obama’s inauguration, there wasn’t much offered by my own Year of the Ox. Therefore Chuck selected five wines that represented the best of the wine world from New World to Old World, white wine to red wine starting at 9pm. A dinner would follow of Chef Keith Endo’s own creations served communal table style like done in many parts of Europe. There would even be time to return home to experience the “glory” of illegal aerial fireworks… not that I have a desire to experience downtown Beirut at the height of war.
The Original Lineup
(with Chuck’s comments)
1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon “Howell Mountain”
Randy Dunn has made a HUGE name for himself through his Howell Mountain grown Cabernets. Who ever gets to taste older Dunn wine? On this night, we will try his sensational '97.
1998 Elio Altare Barolo “Brunate”
Elio Altare is unquestionably the father of modern day Barolo. His contemporary styled Nebbiolo offers elegance, refinement & incredible balance without compromising character, nobility or individuality.
1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol “Cuvee Speciale” (Magnum)
Substituted with 1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine
Lucien & Lulu Peyraud were the “storybook” wine couple & their passion for wine & life captured my imagination & fueled the desire to search & discover the WORLD of wine beyond Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne & California. Domaine Tempier & their soulful Bandol wines are their legacy.
1990 Sassicaia
This legendary wine estate was the first to show the world the enormous potential Italy’s Tuscan Coast had for producing world class red wine. The 1990 was a sensational vintage for them.
2000 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese DRY (Magnum)
Substituted with 1993 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese
There has been no other wine producer in the world whose wines have WOW-ed me as much & there is no winemaker more revered than Wilhelm Haag.
However, since there were several last minute cancellations which brought the tasting group down to 14 attendees, Chuck replaced the 2 magnums with individual bottles which were just as good… if not better.
(with Chuck’s comments)
1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon “Howell Mountain”
Randy Dunn has made a HUGE name for himself through his Howell Mountain grown Cabernets. Who ever gets to taste older Dunn wine? On this night, we will try his sensational '97.
1998 Elio Altare Barolo “Brunate”
Elio Altare is unquestionably the father of modern day Barolo. His contemporary styled Nebbiolo offers elegance, refinement & incredible balance without compromising character, nobility or individuality.
1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol “Cuvee Speciale” (Magnum)
Substituted with 1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine
Lucien & Lulu Peyraud were the “storybook” wine couple & their passion for wine & life captured my imagination & fueled the desire to search & discover the WORLD of wine beyond Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne & California. Domaine Tempier & their soulful Bandol wines are their legacy.
1990 Sassicaia
This legendary wine estate was the first to show the world the enormous potential Italy’s Tuscan Coast had for producing world class red wine. The 1990 was a sensational vintage for them.
2000 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese DRY (Magnum)
Substituted with 1993 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese
There has been no other wine producer in the world whose wines have WOW-ed me as much & there is no winemaker more revered than Wilhelm Haag.
However, since there were several last minute cancellations which brought the tasting group down to 14 attendees, Chuck replaced the 2 magnums with individual bottles which were just as good… if not better.
My Evaluation
We started with the 1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon. While winemaker Randy Dunn may initially come off as a crusty old cowboy - definitely not in the mold of the young turks of California Cabernet production – he makes Cabernet in the Old World style deemphasizing concentration and extraction for a balance of fruit, acid and terroir. This wine evolved the most of the five and started with dried currant and earth and solid acid to perfumed dried red fruit and a pleasing balance of fruit, acid and background tannins with a moderately long finish.
Next up was the Altare Barolo and while Elio Altare is considered the father of the new generation of Barolo producers, he still manages to marry the earthy essence of Nebbiolo with solid fruit and good extraction without seeming like a New World wine. Fleshy red cherry, leather and hints of dusty spice throughout the nose with a rich mouth feel and long finish. Barolo rocks! Great Barolo absolutely rocks!
The Tempier Bandol was next up and though I knew the order of the wines, the unmistakable “funkiness” of the nose would have announced its presence in any blind tasting. A combination of underbrush, barnyard and the grandparent’s closet immediately jumped from the glass… but in a good way. Rich, silky red cherry and mouth filling richness followed with a nice flow over the palate with a long finish. This was my favorite of the night as well as many other tasters… of course the Mrs loved it too so I’ll have to share whatever bottles remain in my cellar.
The last red was the Mrs favorite; Sassicaia. Sassicaia was one of the original Super Tuscan wines from Italy blending Cabernet Sauvignon with traditional Bordeaux grapes, sometimes with traditional Tuscan red grapes. Though Chuck didn’t uncork the blockbuster 1985 vintage, the 1990 was also considered a very good vintage. Unfortunately while it sat in my glass (~90 minutes), it still remained a closed wine that only gave hints of its potential in another 5 to 10 years (and it was already 19 years old).
The only white wine of the night, a Fritz Haag Auslese was easily my 2nd favorite of the night. It had as complex a nose in a white wine rivaling even vintage Krug champagne with honey, honeysuckle, melons, dried orange peel, petrol and even a touch of coconut. A rich mouth feel followed with a very long finish. Of course since I just knew that the Mrs would love this wine, I passed my glass to her after only 2 meager sips. Chivalry does have its price.
And the Food
We started with the 1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon. While winemaker Randy Dunn may initially come off as a crusty old cowboy - definitely not in the mold of the young turks of California Cabernet production – he makes Cabernet in the Old World style deemphasizing concentration and extraction for a balance of fruit, acid and terroir. This wine evolved the most of the five and started with dried currant and earth and solid acid to perfumed dried red fruit and a pleasing balance of fruit, acid and background tannins with a moderately long finish.
Next up was the Altare Barolo and while Elio Altare is considered the father of the new generation of Barolo producers, he still manages to marry the earthy essence of Nebbiolo with solid fruit and good extraction without seeming like a New World wine. Fleshy red cherry, leather and hints of dusty spice throughout the nose with a rich mouth feel and long finish. Barolo rocks! Great Barolo absolutely rocks!
The Tempier Bandol was next up and though I knew the order of the wines, the unmistakable “funkiness” of the nose would have announced its presence in any blind tasting. A combination of underbrush, barnyard and the grandparent’s closet immediately jumped from the glass… but in a good way. Rich, silky red cherry and mouth filling richness followed with a nice flow over the palate with a long finish. This was my favorite of the night as well as many other tasters… of course the Mrs loved it too so I’ll have to share whatever bottles remain in my cellar.
The last red was the Mrs favorite; Sassicaia. Sassicaia was one of the original Super Tuscan wines from Italy blending Cabernet Sauvignon with traditional Bordeaux grapes, sometimes with traditional Tuscan red grapes. Though Chuck didn’t uncork the blockbuster 1985 vintage, the 1990 was also considered a very good vintage. Unfortunately while it sat in my glass (~90 minutes), it still remained a closed wine that only gave hints of its potential in another 5 to 10 years (and it was already 19 years old).
The only white wine of the night, a Fritz Haag Auslese was easily my 2nd favorite of the night. It had as complex a nose in a white wine rivaling even vintage Krug champagne with honey, honeysuckle, melons, dried orange peel, petrol and even a touch of coconut. A rich mouth feel followed with a very long finish. Of course since I just knew that the Mrs would love this wine, I passed my glass to her after only 2 meager sips. Chivalry does have its price.
And the Food
I won’t dwell on the food but Chef Keith did do an admirable job with Soft Shell Crab Bruschetta, House Made Pork Sausage Pizza, Handmade Linguini with Fresh Chanterelles, Crisped Duck Confit with Barolo Risotto and Roasted Veal Chops with Garlic Mash. Unfortunately before I could share a glass (or sip) of O-toso with Chef Keith, he departed to his Aunt’s for toshikoshi soba. As an added bonus, Chuck also opened another Barolo, a 13 year old gem from Castelletto which had loads of white pepper and dried red cherry and another white dessert wine, a 1990 Sauterne from Chateau Filhot which had loads of caramelized pineapple, a touch of petrol and citrus peel and very good acid on the back end.
Am I recommending forsaking your usual holiday festivities for a wine tasting? Definitely not… unless you’re spending the holidays in Hawaii, then Vino should be on your short list. Should you attempt to age some of your age worthy bottles? Definitely, especially if you like German Riesling. The complexity it acquires after 10 or so years is definitely worth the wait. And Barolo and Bandol is always good though more so with some bottle aging. And for those wondering, we did have our usual “Eve” party… just that it was on the 2nd of January. And boy was it a lot less stressful. In fact, I’m thinking of delaying the party every year… but that would depend on how badly we NEED to transition to the next year.
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