I'm not sure at what point in time America got hung up on
pure grape varietals as their wines of choice. Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay.
Zinfandel. The only Old World wine that comes to mind that's labeled and sold
as the name of the pure grape varietal is Prosecco. All other Old World wines
are mainly labeled as the name of the house or chateau or the wine growing
district - even if it's a singular grape varietal. Does it stem from the
American Kennel Club where a purebred canine is supposedly more valuable than a
mutt? I personally would prefer a mutt as they're not as prone to genetic
maladies like hip dysplasia and deafness like their purebred brethren. And off
the subject, if I ever raise canines for show, I WILL name my animal "Fido".
Who ever heard someone calling your dog "Ch. Breeze of wind down the
valley for her majesty"? It's a DOG! Give it a dog's name. Like Fido. You
may see "Ch Fido" at the next Eukanuba Cup. But I digress. So back to
wines. Sometimes, "mutt" wines or blends exemplify the "sum is
greater than the parts" rationale. Like Chateau Margaux or Chateau Petrus
or Chateau Beaucastel. Blends of complementary grapes that are so much better
than any individual grape varietal.
American Blends
To be fair, there are vintners Stateside who embrace the
Old World tradition of blended grapes and about 25 years ago, the Meritage
Association was formed in Napa Valley to embrace the blending tradition in
Bordeaux where both red and white wines were made with classic grape blends. The
reds had to be made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit
Verdot, Malbec or Carmenere while the whites had to contain Sauvignon Blanc,
Semillon or Muscadelle du Bordelais. In Central California, growers tried mimicking
the blends found in Southern France, specifically the Rhone region where Syrah,
Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, Cinsault and Carignan reigned supreme in red
wines and Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne dominated the white wines. And while
some of these wines are great (Opus One, Tablas Creek, Saxum), trying to
emulate Bordeaux or the Rhone when the climatic conditions and soils aren't the
same often doesn't translate to wines found in the Motherland.
A Step Further
Going a step further, there are some vintners in the
Upper 48 and the Old World that are forging their own path. Never mind classic grape blends found only in
the old chateau. We are the NEW GUARD! Different climatic conditions, different
soils, grape clones better suited to these "home" conditions. Blends
not ever imagined in Bordeaux or the Rhone. But as Duke Ellington once stated,
there are only two types of music, "Good music and bad music" and in
that same vein, there are only two types of wines "Good wines and bad
wines", never mind heritage or tradition.
Probably the most successful in the white wine world would
be the Wagner family's Conundrum label which contains varying amounts of
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscat Canelli and Viognier. Never the
same proportion every year and they don't even admit to other white grape
varietals added to the blend. But floral, fruity and crisp at the same time and
friendly to a variety of foods that made the wine so successful the Wagner
family branched it out on its own label.
Then there's Folie a Deux's Menage a Trois White which is
a blend of 44% Chardonnay, 34% Muscat Alexandria and 22% Chenin Blanc and while
you won't find this blend anywhere in France (you may find menage a trois in
France but not these 3 grapes in one bottle), the body, fruit and acid combine
to perfectly pair with hearty Asian cuisine.
For other Maverick Blends, try these white wine blends
with your favorite Asian cuisine whether it be Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Thai
or Vietnamese. The fruit pairs with sweeter flavors in sweet and sour, the
slight sweetness tempers any capsaicin chili pepper heat and the acid cleanses
the palate between bites. Prices shown
reflect prices at K & L Wines in the Bay Area followed by my own personal
scores.
2011 Mas Grand Plagniol Costieres de Nimes" Côtes du
Rhône Blanc $12.99 (4.25/5)
40% Grenache Blanc, 50% Rousanne and 10% Viognier
Peach, melon and citrus blossoms on the nose with a
balanced medium mouth feel on the palate and moderately long finish.
2011 Chemistry by
Chehalem "Fig.'11" Willamette Valley White Wine $14.99 (3.5/5)
40% Pinot Blanc, 37% Gewürztraminer, 12% Riesling, 6%
Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Gris
Melon, peaches and stone fruit on the nose with a hint of
lime with a medium mouth feel, good acid and a touch of bitterness on the
finish
Sokol Blosser
"Evolution" Oregon White $13.99 (3.75/5)
Pinot Gris, Muller-Thurgau, Semillon and six other white
grapes
White flowers, peach and apricot and lime zest on the
nose with a medium palate feel, a touch of sweetness and good acid on the
palate with a medium finish
2011 Domaine
Mittnacht "Gyotaku" $14.99 (4/5)
40% Pinot Blanc and 20% each Riesling, Pinot Gris and
Gewürztraminer
White flowers, apricot, stone fruit and citrus on the
nose with a medium mouth feel and very balanced on the palate with a medium
finish. Created in Alsace, France specifically for sushi and sashimi, it
worked with both limu ahi (yellowfin
tuna) poke and wasabi infused shoyu au
poke (marlin).
2010 Geoff Tate
Insania (Three Rivers Winery) Columbia Valley White Wine $13.99 (3/5)
62% Semillon and 38% Sauvignon Blanc
Candied citrus peel and peach on the nose with a hint of
mineral. Initially a lush mouth feel with ripe white fruit but the acid then
hits the palate and ends with a touch of bitterness and a medium finish.
2011Chateau de
Montfaucon Comtesse Madeleine $17.99 (4/5)
45% Marsanne, 35% Viognier, 10% Clairette and 10% Picpoul
Orange blossoms, melon and a hint of gravel on the nose
with a full palate of orange marmalade, sweet citrus and earth and lush, medium
long finish.
2010 Urbanite
Cellars "Caliberico" Lodi White Blend $14.99 (4.25/5)
47% Verdelho, 35% Albariño and 18% Torrontes
Pineapple and green apple on the nose with a hint of
mineral with a very balanced flow over the palate and a medium long finish.
This wine paired nicely with poke (so
it should pair nicely with any raw fish) and didn't class with memmi (flavored shoyu). One of my new favorite white wines under $15!
2011 Szöke Irsai Oliver $10.99 (4/5)
Olaszrizling (Italian Riesling), Sylvaner, Hárslevelü (Linden-Leaf),
Ottonel Muscatel, Tramini, Király Leányka, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and the
oddly named Irsai Oliver
Very Gewurztraminer like on the nose with apricot, stone
fruit and citrus blossoms with loads of spice and a rich mouth feel and long
finish. This should pair with heartier dishes like roasted poultry or pork and
might even stand up to choucroute.
Final Words
Remember that the list of eight isn't all inclusive so I
encourage you to seek out your own favorite blend of grapes. Also remember that
the whole is often greater than the sum of its parts. Just because a certain
blend works in France or Italy or Spain doesn't mean it's the best blend
Stateside and likewise just because it wouldn't work in the Old World doesn't
mean it wouldn't work Stateside. And remember that it's not simply about the
wine but does the wine pair with what you're eating. A little fruit balanced
with a little sweetness and a little acid makes for the perfect partner with
most Asian cuisines. And it doesn't hurt that the list of eight are all less
than $20 a pop and at those prices, any wine that scores 3.5/5 is a good
bargain. And if you noticed, I didn't even touch on Maverick Blends of red
grapes. But that's another column.
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