Okay, I don’t really consider myself a bitter person. I
am a bit of a pessimist and perpetually carry the attitude and assumption that
the glass is half empty but that’s mainly so that when I do recognize that when
it is indeed half full, appreciate it all the more so. Probably due to my
religious or philosophical upbringing. But not bitter. And I definitely don’t
have a bitter palate. Of the five major taste sensations, I embrace those
bitter taste buds the least. Or do I? After attaining the legal imbibing age, I
did take to a nice frosty beer. And when I did develop a taste for the higher
octane fermented beverages, a cool gin tonic was one of the first libations I
enjoyed. You know, beer does have the hoppy bitterness even if it’s not at the
forefront with domestic varieties and tonic water does have that bitter edge
with the quinine. Perhaps I am bitter…
Why do we Have
Bitter Buds?
As I mentioned in last month’s column, humans have five
basic taste sensations; sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. It’s obvious with the sweet receptors as most humans
probably wish their whole tongues were covered with these receptors. Since salt
and umami are actually involved with the taste and savoriness of food, I can
see why they exist. And lots of foods carry their fair share of acid hence the
sour receptors. But bitter. There aren’t a whole lot of foods that are
inherently bitter. And a fair share are toxic. I think that detecting some
toxic food only after putting it in your mouth and chewing is cutting it a wee
bit too close. So early mankind may not have had much use for those bitter
buds.
But since modern cuisine is also about contrasts;
contrasting textures, contrasting flavors, contrasting temperatures,
contrasting colors. What better than flavor sensations that balance sweet and
rich flavors? Bitter does this like no other.
Before the
Revelation
Though I didn’t realize it way back when, just the fact
that I enjoyed a frosty beer showed an inclination for those bitter buds. After
all, the main flavoring component of beer are hops. And hops give beer that
slightly bitter edge – more so in artisanal or Old World brews and while not as
evident in mainstream American beer, it’s probably the main reason why beer is
so food friendly. From salty to sweet to sour to rich to fried foods, that
slightly bitter edge balances those other flavor sensations in food.
Of course, after the fermented barley I started sampling
that distilled grain infused with herbs. And in a gin tonic I found that nice
balance between sweet and bitter. So much so that I eventually looked for a
better source of tonic water since the supermarket variety was mostly sweet
with very little quinine or bitter. Which led me to Q-Tonic which nicely
balanced the sweet and bitter. Then after my first perfect Negroni at the
Buckeye Roadhouse in Mill Valley at least a decade ago, I became a Campari
devotee. To most, Campari is that nasty red liqueur that is purely about
bitter. Bitter, bitter and more bitter. But it makes a great before meal aperitif
or an after meal digestif.
More than Just
Campari
Since that first revelation of true bitter drinks with
that perfect Negroni over a decade ago, I’ve actively sought out other bitter
aperitifs and digestifs at any wine or liquor store I visit. And there are
quite a few out there.
For starters, there are the quinine based liqueurs from
the quinquina group of aperitifs that include Cocchi Americano, Byrrh, Dubonnet
and Lillet with a blend of herbs that is supposed to stimulate your appetite
before meals. Then there are the bitter orange based liqueurs like Grand
Marnier, Cointreau and Amaro Nonino that add a pronounced orange kick to
cocktails. And then there are pure bitters that are added to cocktails and
savory dishes to enhance the other flavors. Where bitters previously were
limited to either Angostura or Peychaud, there now are literally bitters from
any flavor component including orange, grapefruit, celery, chocolate, pecan,
tamarind and even passion fruit bitters. And for those contemplating the bitter
red of Campari but still can’t get used to the bitterness, there’s Campari’s
sibling, Aperol which has less alcohol and is less bitter thus making it seem a
little sweeter.
Veggies That
Balance the Palate
As you may recall from a previous column, bittermelon or nigauri used to be my kryptonite. Partly
because it didn’t really look appetizing almost like a pale cucumber with a
social disease, partly because it was so bitter. But somewhere in time, I not
only embraced it but actually craved it. Perhaps it was because it was the
perfect culinary foil to sweet and rich shoyu
braised pork belly ala that traditional Okinawan specialty, champuru. Perhaps it was simply because
I realized that balance just wasn’t a necessity of the martial arts but also in
the culinary arts as well.
And though I’ve highlighted the noble bittermelon, there
are many products available at your local supermarket that can accomplish that
same culinary balance. For instance, the citizens of Lyon have known for ages
that the perfect vegetable foil for crisp lardons, a sharp vinaigrette and
succulent rich poached egg is frisee. It provides a crisp contrast and slightly
bitter edge to balance that rich egg yolk, rich and salty lardons and sharp
vinaigrette. Pretty much, perfection in a salad if I must say so.
Then there’s those culinary cousins, radicchio and
endive. With a pleasing crunch and slight bitterness to balance any vinaigrette
or full flavored topping in any salad. And if the fresh crunch isn’t a
sensation you need, try pan searing radicchio quartered lengthwise then
drizzled with good Balsamic vinegar. The opposing sweet, bitter and sour flavor
will hold up as a side dish for any cut of steak. In fact, I found a recipe for
a salad that included not just radicchio and endive but also fresh fennel. The
slightly bitter edge of each green was balanced by a vinaigrette that included
that sweet wine fortified Greek brandy, Metaxa and it was topped with the sweet
flesh of poached lobster. Divine!
And last but not least, one of my favorite bitter greens,
rapini or broccoli rabe. When sautéed with a little garlic and olive oil, it
provides the perfect palate cleanser to rich roasted meats and cheeses. In
fact, Adam Richman of the Food Network awarded DiNic’s roast pork sandwich with
hand carved sharp provolone and sautéed broccoli rabe as the best sandwich in
America. And it was in part because of the balance with rich pork, sharp cheese
and contrasting bitter sautéed greens.
Balance Those
Other Buds
So to answer my own question, “Yes, I am a bitter person”!
But if for nothing else, it’s simply to give me balance. Balance for the sweet,
salty, sour, fatty, rich and savory flavor sensations encountered as I feed the
body. Because life isn’t all sweet or all salty or all sour. Remember, we’re
talking about food here, not your so-workers. With Yin you need Yang. Or cold
and hot. Or if you’re married, Venus and Mars. It makes food that much more
interesting. And to conclude on a philosophical note, the bitter makes you
appreciate the sweet so much more… Bon appetit!
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