The Undisputed King of Beef


I know that most of you are thinking Kobe beef or Wagyu beef. That King of beef that commands upwards of $300 per pound. Grain and sake fed with daily massages to tenderize the meat. The stuff of legends. Some urban food legend, maybe a touch of reality. Whatever the case, it remains that Holy Grail for most neophyte foodies since supplies are usually limited and just the Kobe or Wagyu nomer sets off that Pavlovian response in hardcore meat eaters.

What is Wagyu?

Strictly speaking Wagyu simply translates to Japanese (wa) beef (gyu) or beef in the Japanese style. It simply started as using a beast of burden to simplify farm chores, mainly rice cultivation but in the mid 17th century, the Shogunate outlawed the consumption of 4 legged animals for some two centuries creating creative ways to raise these bovine. So wagyu is a distinct species of beef? Not really, it consists of roughly 4 different types of cattle so the secret in its popularity is in animal husbandry. Feeding it sake? Maybe. Daily massages? Maybe. Limited production with an artisan’s approach to cultivation? Most definitely.
So what is American Kobe beef? Simply stated, it’s Japanese breed stock cross bred with good American breed stock – mainly Angus beef so while it may have some characteristics of Japanese Wagyu, it’s not exactly the same. The same goes for Australian Kobe beef.

Who Sells Real Wagyu?

Good question. ADiRECT Foods (http://www.adirectfoods.com/) is the primary distributor for 100% pure Japanese wagyu beef in the United States. Be forewarned that prices are well above what your average supermarket or even what your average Mercedes Benz dealership charges. Single steaks can exceed the 3-figure mark but since the marbling on true wagyu far exceeds USDA Prime classification, this truly is “beef foie gras” and a 2 to 3 ounce portion will satisfy most diners.
The local Marukai Wholesale Mart recently had a special pre-order event for members for Ohmi Wagyu Beef. Not just “any” Wagyu beef but the variety provided to the Imperial Family in Japan. Good enough for the Emperor, definitely worth trying for a lowly Gochiso Gourmet.

Will I Need to immediately see my Cardiologist?

Wagyu is touted as the better beef choice due to a higher ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids. Saturated fatty acids are the types that tend to raise your cholesterol levels and are usually solid at room temperature. Supposedly most of these unsaturated fatty acids are in the form of oleic acid or the fat commonly found in olive oil. One of the cable stations was broadcasting a special on over-the-top restaurants and included a restaurant that specialized in Wagyu preparations. The manager of the restaurant proceeded to rub a slice of Wagyu with his fingertip to demonstrate that just body temperature alone could start the melting process of the beef fat due to its higher quantity of unsaturated fatty acids.
I don’t know about you but I haven’t seen cows melting just by their own metabolism. And as far as the higher quantity of unsaturated fatty acids goes, it amounts to about a 3% difference. Maybe enough to affect cooking and flavor sensations on the palate but definitely not enough to qualify it as a healthier alternative. The only way Wagyu might be a healthier alternative beef source is because it costs so much that you can only afford to eat it once a year or so versus supermarket beef which is relatively affordable year round.
If you do choose to consume Wagyu beef, do it strictly from a culinary perspective and give health the day off.

What I did with my Wagyu

When I first heard that Marukai Wholesale Mart was doing a special purchase of Ohmi Wagyu, my mind raced with visions of Wagyu creations that would rival any Iron Chef. Perhaps Loco Moco kicked up several notches with poached quail eggs on the seared Wagyu filet over tea crusted jasmine rice cakes and a sauce Perigeuex. No, no, no. Maybe with a roasted wild mushroom sauce with sauce Béarnaise instead of poached egg. But wait how about Wagyu nigiri sushi alternating shiso infused oil seared slices and thin raw slices painted with scallion-chili oil and bits of yuzu zest?
After this brief delusional manic trance, I did return back to earth and decided that Wagyu being the Mercedes, Rolls Royce or Bentley of beef; sauces, accoutrements, glazes, what-have-you extras would detract from the true flavor of the meat. Almost like purchasing said luxury vehicles just to paint racing flames along the sides and installing turbo mufflers. KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. Simple sea salt and a very hot grill. VERY HOT.

I purchased both the yakiniku meat ($45 for 11 to 12 slices of short rib meat) and filet ($55 for a 5 ounce filet mignon). After cooking various grill fodder, it was time for the piece de resistance. I lowered the grill cover and waited until the external thermometer registered 600 degrees. As a digression, Wagyu beef was meant to be quickly seared until just medium rare at most. If you need your beef cooked further, look no farther than basic supermarket beef as Wagyu seems to acquire a tougher mouth feel as the finely marbled fat gets totally liberated from the tissue.
I quickly placed each slice on the hot grill and as the last slice was placed I promptly turned the earlier placed slices for that perfect medium rare state of being. For the filet, I let the grill surface attain the same temperature then seared it for 1 minute, turned 60 degrees for another minute and flipped for the same treatment on the opposite side.
Since I was serving Ohmi Wagyu beef, I felt obligated to serve it with not just any rice but Koshihikari rice. I insisted that my dining companions try it purely naked – no sauce, no extra flavors, period. I then served it with Japanese yakiniku sauce (pre-bottled) and the Gochiso Gourmet’s own chimichuri. While the yakiniku beef was excellent (and made one of the best next day fried rice dishes), the filet was by far THE TENDEREST cut of beef and MOST FLAVORFUL I’ve ever had bar none. All the flavor of any premium rib eye with the melt-in-your-mouth quality of the best filet mignon. If you have the chance to sample true Wagyu beef, I highly recommend pulling out any stop and sampling the true Beef of Kings (or Emperors) and sample real Wagyu. Just postpone that Cardiologist visit for another month or so.

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