We recently attended a special dinner at Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar featuring those elusive subterranean fungi arguably the King of all things mushroomy, the truffle. This is not the chocolate version sitting in the Godiva box nor is it extract made from the “essence” of truffle. This is the real McCoy straight from the forests of Oregon. Oregon? Doesn’t the real McCoy come from the Perigord region of France or Alba in northern Italy? That’s where they are classically harvested but truffles also grow from northern California all the way up to Vancouver British Columbia with the Willamette Valley in Oregon providing very suitable truffle growing conditions. We were fortunate enough that Chef Keith Endo procured a batch of fresh Oregon black truffles and created a four course truffle inspired menu.
To wash down the meal, yours truly selected that favorite grape of the Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir. When Pinot Noir picks up the “terroir” or soil characteristics, it often gives the wine a touch of mushroom and earth which pretty much describes a truffle. However at the risk of offending Oregonians, I selected two old world Pinot Noirs; One from the motherland of classic Pinot Noir, an earthy Cote de Beaune from Burgundy and a feminine floral Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) from Ahr Germany. The two wines provided a contrast between the floral, spicy and refined qualities of the grape and the earthy, gamy and funky flavors also found in Pinot.
1st course
Chilled Waialua Asparagus Soup with lime crème fraiche & shaved black truffle
While the fresh shaved truffle didn’t have the same aromatic punch as fresh Alba truffle, the lime crème fraiche provided a perfect balance to herbal earthiness of the asparagus. The perfume of the Meyer Nakel Spatburgunder paired perfectly with the truffle and lime aromas.
What is a Truffle?
Members of the Tuberaceae family namely the Tuber genus are fungi that live underground in symbiotic relationships with certain tree roots. The truffle benefits from a free carbohydrate source produced by the tree while the tree is able to absorb water and nutrients from the surrounding soil more efficiently with help from the truffle. And because humans desire truffles, they are a lot more likely to protect any tree(s) that harbor truffles in their vicinity.
2nd course
Warm Grilled Portobello Mushroom Salad with Nalo Farms baby arugula, Hau’ula tomatoes
& a black truffle vinaigrette
Meaty Portobello with the aroma of truffle paired with tender greens, ripe tomatoes and cumin scented carrot shavings. It could have been an entrée on its own! Once again, the Meyer Nakel was a better partner for the dish.
The two main species that are found in fine dining establishments are the French black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) and the Italian white truffle (Tuber magnatum). The Oregon white truffle is the same genus as their European cousins (Tuber gibbosum and Tuber oregonense) while the Oregon black truffle is of the genus Leucangium. What all truffles do have in common is a gnarly appearance that seems better suited to a compost pile than sliced over risotto or placed under poultry skin before roasting. But oh that heavenly aroma! Almost, but not exactly a bit of garlic, mushroom and gasoline or at least that aromatic intensity of gasoline. And what of the taste? Well, truffles don’t actually have a lot of taste; it’s strictly about the perfumy aroma. Though remember that most of what we perceive as taste is primarily due to aroma since our taste buds are only able to detect sweet, salty, bitter, sour and umami.
3rd course
Truffled Mac & Cheese with aged Black Diamond White Cheddar, double cream Gouda and garlic cream, mushrooms & prosciutto
The only downside to this rich combination of truffles and mushrooms and salty prosciutto was that neither Pinot was the perfect partner. A Sonoma Coast Pinot would have perfectly fit the bill!
In the old world, either pigs or dogs are used to sniff out these heavenly delights since they’re deposited out of sight. The porcine assistants have a keener nose than canines for truffles but they must be rewarded with a truffle or two which cuts into the gatherer’s bounty. Supposedly, something in truffles mimics a hormone in boar’s saliva which drives sows crazy. I can’t confirm this since I try not to get close to the working end of a boar – alive or dead. Canines don’t require a truffle reward but sometimes are stimulated to urinate on the truffle so fast digging is in order before Fido relieves himself. It is said that sometimes small flying gnats coalesce just above the truffle supposedly entranced by their aroma which may detect their presence for the solitary truffle gatherer.
4th course
Black Truffle Crusted Braised Short Rib with celery root mash & a wild mushroom
perigoudine sauce
Fork tender beef made earthier by powdered truffle and root mash tied together with a delicious mushroom sauce. Because the earthiness of the Cote de Beaune balanced the earthiness of the dish, the fruit in the wine was highlighted.
Purchasing your Own
Be forewarned that 1) fresh truffles aren’t always in season and often difficult to find and 2) if you do find them, purchasing them may require Junior to transfer from that 4 year college down to a small community college. Oregon truffles run about $60 for just 4 ounces and their French and Italian cousins run 4 to 6 six times that. If you happen to run across a small bottle containing a single black truffle and the $9 price entices you, stop. These preserved truffles (along with the canned variety) have absolutely no flavor and very little – if any – truffle aroma. If you still feel compelled to purchase your own (but want to keep Junior in college), try truffle infused oil. Actually it’s more like truffle scented oil since most of these products don’t contain any truffle at all. Most are laced with 2,4-dithiapentane – one of the major compounds that give truffle its heady aroma. Many chefs refused to continue using truffle oil after discovering that it didn’t really contain any truffle. Me, I don’t charge for my cooking so I’ll continue to use truffle oil. If you decide to try truffle oil, store it in the refrigerator to preserve that aroma.
Dessert
Kahuku Watermelon Gazpacho with Thai basil & cucumber yogurt sorbet
No truffle in this dish but the perfect palate cleanser after a great meal. Kudos to Chefs Keith Endo and Jennifer Cho along with Chuck Furuya, MS and Cheryle Gomez for organizing this spectacular truffle feast!
Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar
500 Ala Moana Blvd
Restaurant Row
Honolulu, Hawaii 96813
(808) 524-8466
Wed Thurs 5:30 – 9:30pm
Fri Sat 5:30 – 10:30pm
Comments