I’m sure we’re all familiar with the traditional wine of Japan, sake. I’ve highlighted this extraordinary beverage made simply with steamed rice, water, koji and yeast. Supposedly with more aromatics than that revered French distillation, Cognac. All from a simple, humble grain. However did you know that the same simple grain can also produce a slightly stronger, clear beverage that while having characteristics of simple rice fermentation, also has unique qualities on its own? The beverage in question is Shochu and in the past several years, its popularity in Japan has surpassed that of sake.
What is Shochu?
For the most part, Shochu is a distillate of fermented rice, barley, sweet potatoes or buckwheat or a combination of each. In simple chemical and biological terms, when a solution (more like a slurry) of yeast is exposed to a sugar source under anaerobic conditions (conditions devoid of oxygen), the yeast consume the sugar and produce ethyl alcohol (the same ethyl alcohol that certain automobiles can use as fuel) to produce a rudimentary wine. If the food source is sugar, the yeast can get busy right away to ferment the sugar to alcohol. In the case of sake, the starch in rice must first be converted to sugar via koji mold. Enzymes in our own saliva can also convert starch to sugar (performing the same task as koji mold) and this is still done in parts of the old world as documented in Tony Bourdain’s No Reservations episode in South America with yucca “beer”. Before the thought of salivary amylase induced starch fermentation totally grosses you out, be aware that sake fermentation probably originated with the same method though thankfully, koji mold has replaced saliva.
When the yeast have martyred themselves in the name of sake, they produce a final product with anywhere from 17 to 20% alcohol. However throw in human ingenuity (and a distilling vat and condensation tube) and you now have rudimentary liquor. Actually hard liquor with an alcohol content of 60% to 95.6%. Because a water-ethyl alcohol mixture is an azeotrope with a boiling point less than pure alcohol, you can never distill pure ethyl alcohol.
So basically, shochu is a yeast fermentation product of rice, barley, sweet potato and/or buckwheat which is then distilled and diluted with water to produce a clear beverage with about 25% alcohol (50 proof). The 25% alcohol content places it closer to wine than whiskey.
A sampling of two different styles of shochu gave me totally different results, both in the aroma and taste of the shochu.
What is Shochu?
For the most part, Shochu is a distillate of fermented rice, barley, sweet potatoes or buckwheat or a combination of each. In simple chemical and biological terms, when a solution (more like a slurry) of yeast is exposed to a sugar source under anaerobic conditions (conditions devoid of oxygen), the yeast consume the sugar and produce ethyl alcohol (the same ethyl alcohol that certain automobiles can use as fuel) to produce a rudimentary wine. If the food source is sugar, the yeast can get busy right away to ferment the sugar to alcohol. In the case of sake, the starch in rice must first be converted to sugar via koji mold. Enzymes in our own saliva can also convert starch to sugar (performing the same task as koji mold) and this is still done in parts of the old world as documented in Tony Bourdain’s No Reservations episode in South America with yucca “beer”. Before the thought of salivary amylase induced starch fermentation totally grosses you out, be aware that sake fermentation probably originated with the same method though thankfully, koji mold has replaced saliva.
When the yeast have martyred themselves in the name of sake, they produce a final product with anywhere from 17 to 20% alcohol. However throw in human ingenuity (and a distilling vat and condensation tube) and you now have rudimentary liquor. Actually hard liquor with an alcohol content of 60% to 95.6%. Because a water-ethyl alcohol mixture is an azeotrope with a boiling point less than pure alcohol, you can never distill pure ethyl alcohol.
So basically, shochu is a yeast fermentation product of rice, barley, sweet potato and/or buckwheat which is then distilled and diluted with water to produce a clear beverage with about 25% alcohol (50 proof). The 25% alcohol content places it closer to wine than whiskey.
A sampling of two different styles of shochu gave me totally different results, both in the aroma and taste of the shochu.
Yokaichi Mugi Shochu distilled and bottled by Takara Shuzo, Co
Produced purely from barley (mugi), this version was the most floral of the four versions tasted. A slightly floral nose with a hint of fresh strawberries almost like a light ginjo sake. Medium body on the palate with a definite bite of the alcohol with a medium finish.
Shiranami Kurokoji Shochu distilled and bottled by Satsuma Shuzo, Co
Produced from 83.3% sweet potatoes and 16.7% rice, this was the boldest of the four. As the name implies, it is made with the black koji mold which tends to extract more flavor components than the common white koji mold. With a nose of fermented sugar cane and mezcal, the aromas carried over to the palate with robust flavors and a medium finish. Definitely not for the faint of heart.
Drinking Etiquette
As is the custom in Asian culture, seniority is respected even at the local watering hole. When pouring for a senpai, hold the bottle with two hands while pouring, when receiving from a senpai, hold your glass with two hands. A ritual usually not practiced anymore has the junior person turning away their senpai while sipping, it was previously considered bad manners to face your senpai while downing your drink. And it is still considered rude to leave a comrade’s glass empty – whether you’re a junior or senior. However, glasses are not refilled until they go empty and if your glass is refilled by anyone, it’s rude not to take a sip from it – even if you’re simply pretending to sip – before placing the glass back on the table.
The Okinawan Version
Produced simply from rice, the Okinawan version of shochu is called awamori. However the traditional short grain rice served at meals (and used in sake production) is not employed.
Awamori is produced from Thai-style long grain crushed ride and primarily uses black koji mold. Other than extracting more flavor compounds in the fermenting culture, black koji mold also produces more acid, citric acid to be exact. This extra acid production prevents other microorganisms from infesting the fermenting moromi or rice-water-mold-yeast mixture. While contamination of the moromi may not be a problem in the colder climates of Japan, the tropical climate in Okinawa encourages microbial growth – both desired and undesired. Awamori consumed in the motherland also is produced a wee bit stronger – anywhere from 30% to 60% alcohol (another reason to stop smoking especially if you consume 60% awamori). However most awamori exported to the states are diluted to 25% alcohol.
Kumejima Kumesen Awamori brewed and bottled by Kumejima’s Kumesen, Co
With a slight fermented nose almost like a hearty junmai sake. Light on the palate with a light finish unlike the initial aroma.
The Korean Version
Made from rice, potato, wheat, barley, sweet potato or even tapioca, Soju is the Korean version of Shochu. As Korea is connected to the Asian plains, soju production started well before the Japanese were distilling shochu. It normally is bottled between 20% and 45% alcohol but soju exported to the states usually is 24% alcohol. That’s probably because two of its larger markets, New York and California tax soju the same as wine or beer as long as the alcohol remains below 25%.
Produced from 83.3% sweet potatoes and 16.7% rice, this was the boldest of the four. As the name implies, it is made with the black koji mold which tends to extract more flavor components than the common white koji mold. With a nose of fermented sugar cane and mezcal, the aromas carried over to the palate with robust flavors and a medium finish. Definitely not for the faint of heart.
Drinking Etiquette
As is the custom in Asian culture, seniority is respected even at the local watering hole. When pouring for a senpai, hold the bottle with two hands while pouring, when receiving from a senpai, hold your glass with two hands. A ritual usually not practiced anymore has the junior person turning away their senpai while sipping, it was previously considered bad manners to face your senpai while downing your drink. And it is still considered rude to leave a comrade’s glass empty – whether you’re a junior or senior. However, glasses are not refilled until they go empty and if your glass is refilled by anyone, it’s rude not to take a sip from it – even if you’re simply pretending to sip – before placing the glass back on the table.
The Okinawan Version
Produced simply from rice, the Okinawan version of shochu is called awamori. However the traditional short grain rice served at meals (and used in sake production) is not employed.
Awamori is produced from Thai-style long grain crushed ride and primarily uses black koji mold. Other than extracting more flavor compounds in the fermenting culture, black koji mold also produces more acid, citric acid to be exact. This extra acid production prevents other microorganisms from infesting the fermenting moromi or rice-water-mold-yeast mixture. While contamination of the moromi may not be a problem in the colder climates of Japan, the tropical climate in Okinawa encourages microbial growth – both desired and undesired. Awamori consumed in the motherland also is produced a wee bit stronger – anywhere from 30% to 60% alcohol (another reason to stop smoking especially if you consume 60% awamori). However most awamori exported to the states are diluted to 25% alcohol.Kumejima Kumesen Awamori brewed and bottled by Kumejima’s Kumesen, Co
With a slight fermented nose almost like a hearty junmai sake. Light on the palate with a light finish unlike the initial aroma.
The Korean Version
Made from rice, potato, wheat, barley, sweet potato or even tapioca, Soju is the Korean version of Shochu. As Korea is connected to the Asian plains, soju production started well before the Japanese were distilling shochu. It normally is bottled between 20% and 45% alcohol but soju exported to the states usually is 24% alcohol. That’s probably because two of its larger markets, New York and California tax soju the same as wine or beer as long as the alcohol remains below 25%.
Jinro Soju
A very light, slight alcoholic nose, Slightly sweet and viscous on the palate with a medium finish. The “tamest” of the four distilled beverages and the most food friendly.
How I Drink Shochu
I feel that because of the higher alcohol content, shochu is best either on the rocks or mixed with a touch of ice water. Of course many mixologists (high tech bartenders) substitute shochu for vodka in Asian inspired flavored martini-type libations. Since I’m not big into whiskey anymore, I still prefer wine with my meals. Of course that doesn’t mean I can’t cook with shochu. Can you say new age Drunken Chicken or Pork Braised in shoyu, sugar, miso and shochu? But of course, that’s another column.
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