Depending on your frame of reference, it’s either an old school kitchen device used for crushing spices or the outdated symbol of a profession that provides medication, perhaps to soothe the irritated stomach that consumed too many of those spices. In my case, it symbolizes both since pharmacy provides the means for sustenance while cooking feeds the body and soul. Of course, this symbolic device is the mortar and pestle which is as rudimentary as they come; a bowl to contain something to pound and a pounding device. They can be as rustic as the Mexican stone mocajete used to mash avocado for a chunky guacamole or the sleek marble or granite versions sold in most gourmet kitchen stores or the polished wooden versions used to mash fried plantains, chicharrones and garlic for that Puerto Rican comfort food, mofongo. Even the Japanese have their own version albeit supersized version also known as the usu and kine which requires two people to operate and is solely used for mochi pounding.
Of course, I won’t bore you with a column devoted just to a simple kitchen device but rather highlight what that device potentially can create. While Wolf ranges and All-Clad pots and pans are desirable, the food produced from them is the ultimate goal. However if kitchen implements still excite you more than the food they produce, I suggest you seek professional help.
The Mortar and Pestle
The early Romans consumed a cheese based spread called Moretum which took its name from the bowl used to crush ingredients or the mortar. Flavorings such as fresh herbs, salt, oils and vinegars were often added to the mix and eventually in Provence, France and Liguria, Italy, basil became the predominant fresh herb used in the blend and the name of this spread eventually reflected the pounding half of the pair, the pestle or pesto in Italy and pistou in France.
I’m sure all of you have tried that heavenly blend of fresh basil, fresh garlic, toasted pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano or Romano cheese, salt, black pepper and extra virgin olive oil. What!? You don’t care for the traditional basil pesto because you don’t care for that strong almost licorice like sweetness of fresh basil? Or you’re not a fan of raw garlic? Or perhaps you can’t find pine nuts or what you can find reeks of oil based paint? Well don’t fret. There are NO hard and fast culinary rules. What you like and dislike are what makes cooking from YOUR heart. Don’t like garlic? Leave it out. Love cilantro? Add it with reckless abandon. Remember that the name pesto comes from pestle, the pounding device used to create it and not from the individual ingredients that comprise YOUR own pesto.
The Basic
For starters, pesto is made with fresh ingredients. You can’t make a pesto with dried herbs or garlic powder. I know that in the States, fresh produce is seasonal and that perfectly ripe basil leaves may not be available year round (life is not all peaches and cream in the Tropics as insects also grow year round to consume said crops). However, when you can procure fresh basil the basic recipe goes something like this. Enough fresh basil leaves to fill a 7 cup food processor. One to 3 cloves of fresh garlic roughly chopped. One quarter cup of toasted pine nuts. Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. For my personal preference, cheese is optional (it’s also optional with the French pistou). Mainly because I try to consume healthier food options on a daily basis. If my basil pesto is for weekly use in my lunchtime sandwiches, I’ll skip the cheese because it does contain its fair share of saturated fat. If my basil pesto will be used in a dinner party for friends, I’ll add the Parmigiano Reggiano for flavor (remember that Parmigiano contains umami or the 5th flavor sensation) since my dinner parties don’t occur on a daily basis. Lastly add extra virgin oil to desired consistency – I make a thicker pesto for daily use since there’s no cheese and it blends perfectly with reduced fat mayonnaise. Finally add 2 to 3 grams of crushed Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) to help preserve the vibrant green color of the pesto ( a Michael Chiarello tip). This basic basil pesto can be tossed as is with cooked spaghetti, linguine or capellini for a simple taste of Genoa. Or simmer 2 cans or chopped clams with their liquid, 1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice and a dash of dry white wine and the zest of ½ lemon with ¼ cup of basil pesto. Toss with freshly cooked capellini or thin spaghetti and serve with a glass of Pinot Grigio for the perfect clam pesto pasta. Finally, add 1 part basil pesto to 2 parts of reduced fat mayonnaise for the perfect basil scented sandwich spread. A low fat alternative to plain mustard or ketchup for your weekly brown bag weekday lunches – reduce fat mayonnaise dressings also help to soften ciabatta or French bread that has naturally hardened during the course of the week.
Alternative Pesto
Anyone that knows the Gochiso Gourmet knows that I love… no, make that reveres fresh cilantro. And it didn’t always start out as a love relationship. I previously felt (and tasted) that fresh cilantro was akin to stink bugs… not that I consumed stink bugs on a regular basis. But I avoided fresh cilantro like the plague. But as Iron Chef Bobby Flay has stated time and time again, if you don’t like cilantro try it again. My personal fresh cilantro epiphany came while in school in San Francisco. I had a mega burrito from Gordo’s and their fresh salsa also contained fresh cilantro. What previously was a total food aversion is now a food addiction. I now flavor my cilantro with food. And hopefully this fresh cilantro pesto converts you like it did to me.
Those who know me know that I’m not for precise measuring. I treat your prescriptions the same (just KIDDING)! Since fresh herbs are difficult to precisely measure (other than using a kitchen scale which I don’t possess), the measurements are based on using a 7 cup food processor.
Cilantro Pesto
About two large bunches of fresh cilantro (leaves and stems), roughly torn
1 to 3 cloves fresh garlic
¼ cup toasted macadamia nuts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 to 3 gm crushed Vitamin C
Extra virgin olive oil (1/4 to ½ cup)
Hot sauce (optional)
Fill a 7 cup food processor with torn fresh cilantro. Add garlic, macadamia nut, salt/pepper and Vitamin C (and hot sauce) in food processor and pulse until a rough paste forms. Scrape down the sides then set food processor on run and slowly add olive oil until desired consistency attained. Makes about 1 to 1 & ½ cups. Refrigerate until used.
Use the cilantro pesto in place of basil pesto for an Asian twist. Or for a fast summertime recipe, the Mrs. tosses cook whole grain thin pasta (we love Barilla Plus Angel Hair) with equal parts of cilantro pesto and sweet chili sauce (found in the Asian section of most markets) with cooked shrimp or scallops. Served warm or cold with a glass of off dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer for the perfect hot weather summer dish
Of course, I won’t bore you with a column devoted just to a simple kitchen device but rather highlight what that device potentially can create. While Wolf ranges and All-Clad pots and pans are desirable, the food produced from them is the ultimate goal. However if kitchen implements still excite you more than the food they produce, I suggest you seek professional help.
The Mortar and Pestle
The early Romans consumed a cheese based spread called Moretum which took its name from the bowl used to crush ingredients or the mortar. Flavorings such as fresh herbs, salt, oils and vinegars were often added to the mix and eventually in Provence, France and Liguria, Italy, basil became the predominant fresh herb used in the blend and the name of this spread eventually reflected the pounding half of the pair, the pestle or pesto in Italy and pistou in France.
I’m sure all of you have tried that heavenly blend of fresh basil, fresh garlic, toasted pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano or Romano cheese, salt, black pepper and extra virgin olive oil. What!? You don’t care for the traditional basil pesto because you don’t care for that strong almost licorice like sweetness of fresh basil? Or you’re not a fan of raw garlic? Or perhaps you can’t find pine nuts or what you can find reeks of oil based paint? Well don’t fret. There are NO hard and fast culinary rules. What you like and dislike are what makes cooking from YOUR heart. Don’t like garlic? Leave it out. Love cilantro? Add it with reckless abandon. Remember that the name pesto comes from pestle, the pounding device used to create it and not from the individual ingredients that comprise YOUR own pesto.
The Basic
For starters, pesto is made with fresh ingredients. You can’t make a pesto with dried herbs or garlic powder. I know that in the States, fresh produce is seasonal and that perfectly ripe basil leaves may not be available year round (life is not all peaches and cream in the Tropics as insects also grow year round to consume said crops). However, when you can procure fresh basil the basic recipe goes something like this. Enough fresh basil leaves to fill a 7 cup food processor. One to 3 cloves of fresh garlic roughly chopped. One quarter cup of toasted pine nuts. Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. For my personal preference, cheese is optional (it’s also optional with the French pistou). Mainly because I try to consume healthier food options on a daily basis. If my basil pesto is for weekly use in my lunchtime sandwiches, I’ll skip the cheese because it does contain its fair share of saturated fat. If my basil pesto will be used in a dinner party for friends, I’ll add the Parmigiano Reggiano for flavor (remember that Parmigiano contains umami or the 5th flavor sensation) since my dinner parties don’t occur on a daily basis. Lastly add extra virgin oil to desired consistency – I make a thicker pesto for daily use since there’s no cheese and it blends perfectly with reduced fat mayonnaise. Finally add 2 to 3 grams of crushed Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) to help preserve the vibrant green color of the pesto ( a Michael Chiarello tip). This basic basil pesto can be tossed as is with cooked spaghetti, linguine or capellini for a simple taste of Genoa. Or simmer 2 cans or chopped clams with their liquid, 1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice and a dash of dry white wine and the zest of ½ lemon with ¼ cup of basil pesto. Toss with freshly cooked capellini or thin spaghetti and serve with a glass of Pinot Grigio for the perfect clam pesto pasta. Finally, add 1 part basil pesto to 2 parts of reduced fat mayonnaise for the perfect basil scented sandwich spread. A low fat alternative to plain mustard or ketchup for your weekly brown bag weekday lunches – reduce fat mayonnaise dressings also help to soften ciabatta or French bread that has naturally hardened during the course of the week.
Alternative Pesto
Anyone that knows the Gochiso Gourmet knows that I love… no, make that reveres fresh cilantro. And it didn’t always start out as a love relationship. I previously felt (and tasted) that fresh cilantro was akin to stink bugs… not that I consumed stink bugs on a regular basis. But I avoided fresh cilantro like the plague. But as Iron Chef Bobby Flay has stated time and time again, if you don’t like cilantro try it again. My personal fresh cilantro epiphany came while in school in San Francisco. I had a mega burrito from Gordo’s and their fresh salsa also contained fresh cilantro. What previously was a total food aversion is now a food addiction. I now flavor my cilantro with food. And hopefully this fresh cilantro pesto converts you like it did to me.
Those who know me know that I’m not for precise measuring. I treat your prescriptions the same (just KIDDING)! Since fresh herbs are difficult to precisely measure (other than using a kitchen scale which I don’t possess), the measurements are based on using a 7 cup food processor.
Cilantro Pesto
About two large bunches of fresh cilantro (leaves and stems), roughly torn
1 to 3 cloves fresh garlic
¼ cup toasted macadamia nuts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 to 3 gm crushed Vitamin C
Extra virgin olive oil (1/4 to ½ cup)
Hot sauce (optional)
Fill a 7 cup food processor with torn fresh cilantro. Add garlic, macadamia nut, salt/pepper and Vitamin C (and hot sauce) in food processor and pulse until a rough paste forms. Scrape down the sides then set food processor on run and slowly add olive oil until desired consistency attained. Makes about 1 to 1 & ½ cups. Refrigerate until used.
Use the cilantro pesto in place of basil pesto for an Asian twist. Or for a fast summertime recipe, the Mrs. tosses cook whole grain thin pasta (we love Barilla Plus Angel Hair) with equal parts of cilantro pesto and sweet chili sauce (found in the Asian section of most markets) with cooked shrimp or scallops. Served warm or cold with a glass of off dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer for the perfect hot weather summer dish
Ginger Green Onion Pesto
One large hand of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
2 bunches of fresh green onion, roughly chopped
Salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste
¼ to ½ cup canola oil
Add first 3 ingredients to a 7 cup food processor and run until a paste forms (scraping down the processor) then add canola oil until desired consistency in obtained.
This pesto was inspired by the traditional Cold Ginger Chicken sauce used in most Chinese restaurants. It can be used with steamed white fleshed fish in the traditional manner with hot oil or mixed with reduced fat mayonnaise and julienned green/red cabbage and shredded carrots for an Asian slaw to be added to Asian spiced sliced pork loin or tenderloin for the perfect summertime sandwich.
The New “Pestle”
Since modern technology has afforded us the luxury of electric powered devices, we should take full advantage of the wonders that it allows. While the Old School mortar and pestle does have its place in our culinary creations (grind individual Indian spices for starters), the food processor does allow us to expand the usual repertoire of traditional recipes to the fullest. Explore at will. All you need is a little fresh herbs, a touch of spices and some oil and you too can create your own memorable edible “pestle”.
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