In the Presence of Giants


I just attended a pau hana (after work) wine tasting which I expected to be a simple affair. Getting to HASR Wine Co by 6:00pm was my biggest concern (since I usually get off work between 5-5:30pm). I expected it to be another one of HASR Wine Co’s weekly wine tastings except this one had a $45 charge since it was 7 high end wines. The Michael Jordan, Lance Armstrong and Albert Pujols of the wine world. Often hard to find selections that carry large price tags if you’re “lucky” enough to stumble across a bottle or two. However what unfolded wasn’t totally unexpected since wine seems to bring out the best in people. Several regular tasters brought appetizers and their own treasured bottles to share with the group. The informal wine tasting started with 7 wines – two Chardonnays and 5 Cabernet Sauvignons – provided by HASR Wine Co. My personal ratings are in parenthesis based on a 5 point scale with Wine Spectator ratings next to it based on a 100 point scale.

2007 Peter Michael La Carriere Chardonnay (4.5) (92)
Named after the “Quarry” shaped vineyard that sits above the 1000 foot elevation, this Sonoma County Chardonnay expresses as much “terroir” as you’ll find in California Chardonnay. The 15% alcohol is masked by the abundance of ripe, sweet fruit.
Orange blossom, nectarine and mineral on the nose with immediate sweet fruit that hits the palate that’s gradually replaced with pleasing acidity and mineral with a long finish.

2006 Kistler Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (4) (92)
Grapes from the famed Dutton Ranch are often found in the top Californian Chardonnays.
Stone fruit and mineral hit the nose replaced by sweet oak and vanilla notes. Concentrated ripe fruit on the palate with a touch of mineral and a long finish.

2005 Roy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (3.5)
With only two vintages released thus far, Roy Estate has established their brand in the company of cult Californian wines.
Concentrated red fruit on the nose with sweet red fruit on the palate with a good balance of fruit and tannin with a medium finish.

2005 Dominus (3.75) (89)
From the Moueix clan of Chateau Petrus fame in Pomerol, Dominus is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot blended into the mix as is usually done in Bordeaux. Though it legally can be labeled as a Cabernet Sauvignon (92%), the wine simply is known as Dominus.
Ripe red fruit on the nose with minty undertones. Bordeaux-like on the palate with a moderate mouth feel and nice balance of fruit and tannins with acid that creeps on the medium finish.

2005 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon (4.5) (93)
The original estate was founded in 1882 with the current owners first producing Cabernet 100 years after its founding. In my opinion, one of the few domestic Cabs that improves with aging.
Rich ripe and semi-dried red fruit on the nose with a touch of sage. Good balance of fruit and tannin on the palate with a seamless flow over the palate and a medium long finish.

2005 Cliff Lede Moon Symphony (4)
A combination of grapes from his Darkside of the Moon and Sympathy for the Devil blocks, this wine was provided from the personal cellar of HASR’s owners. 98% Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of Cabernet Franc.
Slightly closed nose but concentrated fruit still evident with a thick rich mouth feel with red and black fruit and a very long finish. Need to decant (or run through Vinturi) if you plan to try now.

2005 Cliff Lede Poetry (4.5) (91)
Produced from only the best fruit from selected vineyards, this is Cliff Lede’s flagship wine. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon with Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot blended to round out the wine.
A nice balance of red fruit, herbs and spices on the nose. Good concentration of flavors on the palate but not overbearing with a long finish.

I intentionally didn’t provide prices for wine since HASR’s price will undoubtedly be different from what you might be able to procure these gems for in your neighborhood wine shop - a wine shop that is limited to one three-pack will price higher than a wine shop with an unlimited allocation. Needless to say, the 2 Chardonnays start in the $75 range with the Cabernet Sauvignons fetching anywhere from $100 to $175.

As mentioned, I had the fortune to be in the midst of several generous wine tasters who shared gems from their own wine collections for all to sample. The following is just a small sample of wines either provided by fellow tasters or purchased right at HASR Wine Co and immediately uncorked.

1990 Dominus (4.5) (91)
Dried orange peel and a touch of dried herb on the nose with dried currant, herb and mineral on the palate with acidity emerging on the back end and a medium finish. Almost 20 years old but still in balance.

2005 Hartwell Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (4.5) (95)
The last vintage that winemaker Andy Erickson produced before moving on to Screaming Eagle.
Concentrated red and black fruit on the nose with a touch of sage with sweet red fruit on the palate balanced by silky tannins and accented by fresh herbs with a long finish.

2005 Linne Calodo The Martyr (4.25) (93)
Produced from the Paso Robles region in central California with an abundance of limestone soils and cool ocean breezes, this Mourvedre based wine with Syrah and Grenache was one of the best domestic Rhone blends I’ve tried.
Herbs, chocolate, red and black fruit and Asian spice all rolled into one wine. Slightly hot on the back end of the palate but all in all, a very good wine.

2005 Cliff Lede Cinnamon Starburst (4.5) (87)
HASR’s last bottle which was purchased by a taster and promptly uncorked for all tasters to try.
Concentrated sweet red and black fruit on the nose with a rich mouth feel of concentrated fruit and silky tannins and a long finish.

2006 Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon (4.5)
Produced by Bonded Winery #9 which is a family owned portfolio of distinct wines trying to express the individual “terroir” of each vineyard.
Concentrated ripe red fruit on the nose with an excellent balance of red fruit and silky tannins on the palate with a seamless flow and a moderately long finish.
Do I plan of purchasing any of these wines? Well, that’s where cost comes into play. A second factor I always consider is whether these wines will work well with food. Since most of these wines retail for well over $100, I probably won’t be seeking them out when I am looking for more “children” to adopt. Since most are also massive in structure, they probably won’t pair with most foods (and for yours truly, it’s also about the food, company and music). The Linne Calodo probably would pair with rich Middle Eastern dishes but there are many great wine pairings for less than $90 so it’s probably off of my shopping list. The only wine I’ll be seeking is the Ghost Block, at $50 it was the cheapest of the “Giants” and did seem to have the capacity to age. Do I plan on attending another HASR Wine Co high end tasting? You betcha! If not just to taste limited production wines, then at least to also share the bounty of my cellar with fellow gracious, enthusiastic wine tasters.

Comments