Vino grinds 8/21/10



We had an evening errand in town yesterday so on the way back home, why not have dinner since we already made the trip into town? And why not stop at our second home, Vino? Couldn’t find a reason “why not” so we stopped by.

Vino offered their Saturday Night Supper menu where Chuck pairs a wine with the appetizer and the entrée for a set price. Tonight’s offering was Chop Chop Salad featuring Waialua asparagus, Kahuku corn and Ho Farms cherry tomatoes along with kalamata olives, caper berries with a wine pairing of La Poussin Rose. The fruit in the Rose was highlighted by the salad greens and cleansed the palate for that next bite.


The entrée was Sous Vide Hudson Valley Duck Breast on duck sausage risotto with a Port wine demi which was paired with a 2006 Monte Antico. The sous vide preparation cooks the duck breast at a very low temperature so the meat retains the same “doneness” throughout vs pan searing cooks the outer breast to well gradually getting to rare on the interior. With sous vide it’s medium rare or rare throughout the whole breast. The Monte Antico which is ¾ Sangiovese with Cab and Merlot blended into the party was a perfect pairing for the luscious duck breast. It actually was wine #61 in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2009.


The Mrs took another dinner route and opted to order “ala carte” from both the Hiroshi and Vino menus. She started with Hiroshi’s Hamachi Sushi scented with truffle oil – I always have room for Chef Hiroshi’s sushi creations.


She then progressed to Vino’s Sicilian-Style Boiled Eggs. I previously avoided boiled eggs as I’m a runny yolk kinda guy so I always thought that a boiled egg ruined a perfectly good yolk… like cooking a steak to well done. But the marriage of sweet, sour, salty, spicy with rich egg and toasted bread. I’m actually featuring my own take on Chef Keith’s recipe in this week’s Gochiso Gourmet column.


The Mrs then went back to the Hiroshi side with the special Duck Leg and roasted veggies. Chef Hiroshi perfectly crisped the outer skin with the inner meat fallin-off-the-bone. Sprinkled with a little five spice powder and sauced with a simple jus. Like an Asian pulled duck dish! Both Chef Keith’s and Chef Hiroshi’s duck creations were equally magnificent!


We ended the meal with the new Vintage Steak on mash and broccolini. The DK group previously procured Meyer Ranch steak which I’m told was younger cattle. The Vintage steak comes from older animals that are finished naturally in the pasture. IMHO the Vintage steak has a beefier flavor than the Meyer and is a little more tender. Plus I hear the cost is less which already means a lower cost for the consumer ($25 versus $28).

The 1999 Domaine de Benserine Cote Rotie that Chuck suggested as a pairing for the steak was mah-vo-lussss! With earth, old leather, dried red fruit and charred meat on the nose, it had a seamless flow over the palate and a medium long finish. Too bad more wines aren't made in this style.


The meal ended with the always-good Apple Tarte and Chuck loading us with a variety of after dinner beverages like Marsala (this Marsala was drinkin’ Marsala, not cookin’ Marsala) and Calvados which sent me to la-la land as soon as we got home…

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