Of the 12 original founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine that started back in 1991, Peter Merriman was the only chef of the bunch whose culinary creations was lacking in our personal palates. No, it wasn't a personal thing. It was simply a matter of logistics. Or call it a simple case of laziness. Since his original restaurant was situated in Waimea and on those few excursions we made to the Big Island usually meant residence in either Kona or the Kohala Coast. Quite a drive up to Waimea. Especially when considering those winding roads with nary a lightpole in sight. Well, those prospects dimmed any potential quest to dine in Waimea. Even if Chef Merriman had exclusive access to those Lokelani Farms tomatoes that perpetually won blind tomato tastings satewide.
Then he opened shop at Kapalua in 2008 though the prospects for a visit wasn't much greater than in Waimea since Kapalua is at the end of the road and given that we usually reside on the Wailea coast when vacationing, making a trek back through those winding roads past Lahaina - especially with some wine under your belt didn't seem very enticing.
Of course he opened shop a year later on Kauai and given that I've visited Kauai once in my whole lifetime, visiting the Waimea restaurant while staying in Kau was a lot likelier prospect.
Then we decided to celebrate the Mrs' B-Day for a short stay-cation on Maui and ended up in Kaanapali... Sounds like a dinner reservation at Merriman's Kapalua which is only 20 minutes up the road...
The restaurant is located just past the Ritz Carlton Kapalua entrance and is situated oceanside with a large deck overlooking the ocean. You can order beverages and appetizers and enjoy them deckside which also includes a fire pit for those breezy West Maui evenings.
We started with Merriman's Mixed Appetizer which included from top right Eden Farms Kurobuta Kalua Pig & Sweet Onion Quesadillas, Ahi Sashimi on Miso Marinated Calamari Salad, Keahole Lobster, Avocado & Tomato Salad and the Warm Crusted Surfing Goat Cheese, Kula Strawberries & Maui Onions.
The quesadillas had the qualities of the best pulled pork sandwich with the right balance of smoky and sweet while the semi-tart and creamy goat cheese was perfectly balanced with fresh strawberries and complemented by a crusty exterior. And the ahi was balanced by the vinegar in the calamari salad and what else can I say about rich lobster, creamy avocado and perfectly ripened tomatoes?
We also sampled a special of the evening, a salad of Bibb Lettuce with Bacon, Fresh Corn, Maui Onions and Cornbread Croutons. A perfect balance of crisp, smoky, savory, sweet and creamy all in one dish.
The Mrs created her own 2 entree "Mixed Plate" with Grilled Maui Cattle Grass-Fed Filet of Beef and the fish special (I believe it was seared kajiki) with a mango relish.
I took the easy route and ordered Merriman's "Mix" Plate consisting of Crispy Day Boat Mahi-Mahi, Maui Cattle Beef Filet and the Original Wok Charred Ahi. Once again, the beef was as tender as beef gets on a creamed corn and Hamakua mushroom sauce. The ahi had a bit of smokiness from the wok while the mahi-mahi was perfectly cooked and included a little mixed rice mususbi.
We then ended the meal with the Maui Gold Pineapple Upside Down Cake with Mama Anderson's Banana Bread, Candied Macadamia Nuts and Haupia Ice Cream which I normally wouldn't have ordered since I still suffer from PTDCD - Post Traumatic Dole Cannery Disorder. After working a summer at Dole Cannery, I still can't get myself to eat fresh pineapple... but this dessert was the BOMB! Caramelized pineapple with a banana bread batter and haupia ice cream. I'm happy to report that I'm on my way to pineapple rehabilitation.
We also sampled the Chocolate Hazelnut Decadence Cake on a White Chocolate Feuilletine Crust with Dulce de Leche. Like a rich Nutella cake with crunch.... and caramel...
I don't know what took us so long to visit Merriman's but in the words of that disgraced governator, "We'll be back"! Our server Donovan emulated that Japanese proverb - "Service should be like the wind, always felt but never seen". Right there whenever I was ready for another glass of wine or to explain each dish and GM Brandi was as gracious as any I've encountered. I'll leave you with a sunset shot from our table...
Merriman's Kapalua
One Bay Club Place
Lahaina, Hawaii 96761
(808) 669-6400
Dinner: Sunday - Saturday: 5:30pm - 9:00pm
Oceanfront Wine Bar Menu: Sunday - Saturday, Starting at 3:00pm
Happy Hour: Daily, 3:00pm - 5:00pm
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