Samplin' James Ontiveros' grapes

We were fortunate to have a sit down wine tasting with one of the masters of the Central Coast, James Ontiveros who not only sells grapes to high end winemakers but also bottles his own label of wines along with partner-winemaker Paul Wilkins. Vino originally scheduled a 2009 Rhone tasting on this night but postponed it since James was in town. This was Chuck's updated newsletter:

2008 Alta Maria Chardonnay “Santa Maria Valley”

The 2008 was a blend of 3 SENSATIONAL Santa Maria Valley vineyards—Bien Nacido (the highly revered, old vine W Block),

Solomon Hills (clones 76, 95 & 96) & Rancho Ontiveros (Wente clone)….& saw roughly 40% new oak.

We love how layered, seamless &abalanced it really is.

2010 Alta Maria Pinot Noir “Santa Maria Valley”

Because james Ontiveros is a vineyard-ist, they keep tweeking the grape sources every year, in an effort to get

a more diversified & interesting grapes mix. The core for the 2010, for instance, is 39 year old Pommard from Q & G Blocks;

with some 17 year old vine Dijon clones (115 & 777) from N & U Blocks. We love how pretty, ethereal, stylish & well textured these wines are.

2009 Native9 Pinot Noir “Rancho Ontiveros”

Rancho Ontiveros is James’ own vineyard across the river closer to the ocean from Bien Nacido.. The 2009 is comprised of the following

clones--80% Joseph Swan; 10% each of Sanford & Benedict & Dijon 114. The wine saw 100% whole cluster & 70% new French oak.

This is a much more masculine, showier style of Pinot, which is at the same time surprisingly light on its feet because of the

sandy soils & brisk ocean winds were pound this site. I think to get the point of this wine across better, this would be their Grand Cru bottling.

2007 Autonom Syrah “Law of Proportions”

James’ winemaking partner is Paul Wilkins (go to chuckfuruya.com—Autonom for more info), who was an assistant winemaker

at Alban Vineyards (a very highly accolade Rhone varietal specialist) for quite some time. It is therefore no surprise that this dynamic duo would also produce

some Rhone varietal wines….now under the Autonom label. This one is 100% Syrah (75% Laetitia vineyard & 25% from Hampton Vineyard)….saw 80% new oak

& NO stems……75 case production. The 2007 is a very masculine, sinister, dark side beast…..mega-intense, dramatic & sultry without any

sense of heaviness or gaudiness. Here is your chance to try it yourself.

Of course with descriptions like this, we couldn't pass on the tasting. And if you know Chuck, he doesn't often gush over New World wines but as he puts it, you should grow grapes where they naturally should grow. Not for maximal yields, not tailoring a vineyard for a specific grape varietal but planting vines where they express themselves naturally. Or paraphrasing a recent term in the Golden State; In Pursuit of Balance or IPOB. A balance of fruit, earth, acid and concentration. And since James Ontiveros represents the 9th generation of his family in the Golden State, I think he's learned a thing or two about grape vine propagation.

His two Alta Maria wines were subtlely perfumed with decent minerality and with a good palate flow - almost seamless - and finsihed nicely and you knew that they would pair very nicely with food. The Native9 Pinot Noir had a little more cajones but wasn't heavy on the palate at all and also had a seamless palate flow with a long finish while the Autonom had a very concentrated nose but was very elegant on the palate (like a bull dancing the waltz) with a good long finish. My two faves were the Native9 and Autonom though I would stock my cellar with all four wines!

Of course man (and woman) can't live by wine alone so we sampled the $15 Vintage Strip Steak