In tribute to America's 237th birthday, I'll re-post a column I wrote for the (then) Nichibei Times about 7 years ago...
Like maize, the wild turkey and blueberries, America also has its own grape, the Zinfandel. Okay, so you’ve read that the Primitivo from Italy is probably Zinfandel’s long lost twin brother or that Zinfandel may actually have descended from an ancient Croatian grape variety. In any case, America put Zinfandel on the world map and continues to produce great renditions of this varietal… even if it is an immigrant.
Perfect Companion to America ’s Other Native Son
Zinfandel is the perfect companion to good old American barbecue. Its fruity, peppery qualities perfectly complement most grilled protein whether it’s chicken, pork or beef. It fills that niche that Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir or any white just can’t match. A young Cabernet has too much tannin that clashes with the smoky qualities of the food, an aged Cabernet may be overwhelmed by the same smoky flavors. Merlot just doesn’t have enough body for the bold flavors of barbecue and Pinot Noir is like transporting lumber in your Mercedes sedan. Wines with finesse require foods with finesse. And barbecue is not about finesse, it’s about big bold flavors. Like Zinfandel.
Last of the Affordable Reds
Unfortunately with the advent of better wine making technology and subsequent production of better wines, the prices for these bottled jewels have also increased – seemingly exponentially. I’ve highlighted specific wines that I used to purchase for $10 to $15 that are now $60 to $80 or more all in the span of a decade or so. Very good Cabs start in the $50 range, great versions at $100 or more. Great Merlots start at $50 or so, likewise for Pinot Noirs with the best examples exceeding $100. Even great Syrah can start at $50. Therefore Zinfandels are the great Red wine bargain of America . You can find many good Zins at $30 or less and only a handful exceeds the $50 price point.
Look for Your Own Personal Zin
There are many different styles of Zinfandel from the concentrated, fruit driven monsters to the spicier varieties to the subtle, balanced versions that are made in the Pinot Noir style. Depending on the average temperature of the vintage, some Zins even have hints of that raisiny, Port quality since hotter vintages can cause raisin formation in a single bunch while other grapes are left green in that same bunch.
Because Zinfandel is more resistant to natural pests, many vines in the California area are in the 75 to 100 year old range and these “Old Vines” tend to produce smaller even bunches that produce corresponding concentrated wines.
Some wineries like Ridge Vineyards blend Zinfandel with other red varieties like Petite Sirah, Carignane, Grenache or Syrah to give each wine a slightly different quality – more jammy fruit versus spicy fruit versus bold fruit. Other producers like Hendry Vineyards grow grapes in pre-designated blocks so that his Block 28 Zin has straightforward ripe red fruit and black pepper versus his Block 7 which highlights the Asian spice flavors.
Just be forewarned that Zinfandel – especially those big, concentrated fruit monsters tend to hide a lot of alcohol. They can get close to 17% (the point where yeast actually kill themselves and fermentation stops) and because it’s masked by this ripe fruit, by the time you finish that bottle by yourself you’re wondering why you’re getting such an intimate view of your carpet fibers… if you catch my drift.
What I Eat with Zinfandel
Other than barbecued chicken, pork or beef, I also enjoy Zinfandel with lamb. Lamb? Isn’t lamb’s natural partnering Cabernet? I find that the tannins in Cabernet often overpower the subtle flavor of farm raised lamb (I disagree with diners who insist that lamb is too gamey. They’re probably thinking of mutton) and that the peppery, jammy fruit qualities of Zinfandel complement it perfectly (isn’t mint jelly a favorite accoutrement for roast leg of lamb)? When I uncork a Zin with those subtle spice qualities like Hendry Block 7, I find that lamb either roasted or braised with Asian spices like star anise, cinnamon and ginger create a perfect marriage of flavor sensations. Try marinating lamb shanks that have had their silver skin (thin white membrane) removed in a mixture of black bean sauce, Chinese five spice, garlic, ginger, fresh cilantro and canola oil overnight then wrap each shank in aluminum foil along with a couple slices of fresh shiitake, bok choy and a dash of Xiao Shin wine (or dry sherry). Bake for 3 hours at 325 degrees and serve with steamed jasmine rice and a nice glass of Hendry Block 7 or Chiarello Zinfandel. It’s also guilt free since one lamb shank provides about 4 ounces of low fat protein.
The Un-Zinfandel
My two cents regarding one of America ’s most popular, ahem… Zinfandels, then I’ll get off of my soapbox. White Zinfandel seems to overshadow real… err, red Zinfandel. While they share the same varietal name, white Zinfandel is about as related to its rubier relative as Gallo Hearty Burgundy is to Romanee Conti Burgundy from France . While the pink version is another alternative to fruit infused wines and wine coolers, it is NOT the same as red zinfandel! That being said, if you do enjoy White Zinfandel, I suggest you continue partaking in the sweet “rose’” as the most important factor in wine consumption is not wines that I like, but wines that YOU like. And it’s not that I dislike sweet wines. I enjoy a glass of dessert wine after dinner as much as the next oenophile. I just don’t view Zinfandel as a dessert wine. Unless it’s Fritz Winery’s Late Harvest Zinfandel which pairs with chocolate as well as any Port. But that’s another column.
The Gochiso’s Short List of Zinfandel
Less than $20 Less than $30 More than $30
Renwood Ridge Vineyards Turley
Ravenswood Hendry JC Cellars
Rabbit Ridge Downing Family Chiarello Family
Rosenblum Karly Fritz Late Harvest
Post Script
Obviously, this column was penned 7 years ago so prices probably are higher though I do have a new fave under $30 - Seghesio's Zinfandel which runs about $25 per bottle and routinely garners 90 point scores from Wine Spectator and makes their Top 100 wine list. And checkout my favorite Zinfandel video which won Wine Spectator's 2011 video contest:
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