Love it or hate it, the internet is balanced with
beneficial innovation as much as it’s plagued with maddening pop-ups and
trolling websites. And because virtually everyone is now connected via our
smartphones, having a mealtime conversation is about as archaic as the
typewriter is for writers. Diners are either furiously snapping food photos or
connecting with someone halfway around the world. As they say, “it didn’t
happen unless you Tweet it”… Sad to say, I’m just as guilty of the frenzied
photo ops when a dish is served… “but it’s for work”… Yah, right.
But there are times when the benefits of the internet and
social media make you thankful for innovation. Better than sliced bread and
penicillin combined. And I’m not talking about Wikipedia (I for one am very
upset Wikipedia wasn’t around when I was in college). For instance, most people
know that Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar is one of my favorite haunts and that
I consider its resident Master Sommelier, Chuck Furuya a mentor. Because of
multiple Facebook posts, I get to see other people who revere Vino as much as I
do and occasionally “friend” one of them even if we’ve never met but simply
look forward to our next meal at Vino. It just so happens that one of these
fellow Vino admirers lives almost halfway around the globe in Venice, Italy.
Via Venice
It just so happens that Dino Coro and his wife Isabella
Zambon had a habit of spending annual vacations in Hawaii, mostly on the Big
Island but also spent some shopping time on Oahu. And during their Oahu stays,
started dining at Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas and Vino Italian Tapas and Wine Bar
about 10 years ago with their two children where they met Chuck Furuya. That
friendship was bolstered by the fact that Coro and Zambon also ran a successful
restaurant in Venice; Osteria Oliva Nera so there was the common bond of wine
and restaurant ownership. And though Asian chefs are common place in the 50th,
Osteria Oliva Nera probably was an anomaly in Venice because they had a
succession of chefs from Japan, Chef Masaya Taguchi and Chef Shunsuke Toyoda who
combined traditional Italian recipes with an Asian sensibility for crudo or raw dishes. Sadly Dino
unexpectedly passed away about 2 years ago so for the past 2 years, Chuck has
hosted a dinner at Vino with Isabella and her two children, Jessica Coro and
Filippo Coro as guests of honor.
Is Venice just
Grand Canals?
No, Venice is the home to that wonderful sparkling wine,
Prosecco. Light and refreshing with a hint of sweetness, it’s the perfect wine
for stir fried Asian cuisine as the effervescence cleanses the palate between
bites and fruitiness and sweetness counteracts the spicier flavors found in
Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Because of its lower price point (usually in the
$15 to $20 range), it also can be used for sparkling wine cocktails like Mimosa
and Bellini.
Venice is also home to another food friendly white wine,
Soave which is made primarily from the Garganega grape and produces lighter
bodied wines with fruity notes that pair nicely with soft cheeses and seafood.
And once again, you can find good Soave in the $15 price range.
Finally, Venice produces a varied range of red wines from
the Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. At the lower end of the
price scale, Valpolicella and Bardolino can be found at most supermarkets. They
are easy drinking, simple light bodied dry red wines that pair with most pasta
courses and because of the slight bitter qualities of the Corvina grape, they
cleanse the palate like tannins in a hearty red wine would. At the extreme end
of the spectrum are the Amarone made from the same grape varietals but Amarone
are usually produced in better vintages and the grapes are first laid on straw
mats to dry for several weeks. Therefore Amarone are as rich as red wines get
and can pair with the heartiest stews and roasts. When the dried grapes are
vinified dry, the wine is labeled Amarone della Valpolicella and when they are
vinified sweet are labeled Recioto della Valpolicella. And the additional time
to create these magnificent wines are reflected in their prices. Amarone start
in the $50 range but are usually closer to the $100 mark with Recioto having
the same price point except most bottles are only 375ml or half the size of a
standard wine bottle. Then there are the wines of Guiseppe Quintarelli that
fetch upwards of $400 on release. Between the Valpolicella and Amarone are the
Ripasso della Valpolicella that “salvage” the expended grape must in the
production of Amarone. Instead of simply discarding the pressed grape must,
free run juice from basic Valpolicella is passed through – ripasso – the must
to pick up flavor components in the grape flesh. A little more complex and
richer than basic Valpolicella but with a price point closer to Valpolicella
than Amarone.
Venetian Cuisine
Because it sits in the middle of a body of water, you
would think all of Venice’s cuisine would be seafood based but that’s only
partially correct. The one dish associated with Venice is Bigoli in salsa which is a whole wheat pasta with an anchovy and
onion sauce. And pasta isn’t the favored starch in the region, it’s polenta
which is served with another Venetian specialty, Fegato ala venesiana or chopped liver cooked with onions. Venetians
also cook with their famous Amarone wine featuring beef braised in the pricey
red wine of the Gods or Brasato
all’Amarone along with risotto also cooked with the same nectar, Risotto all’Amarone. And while my
favorite dessert out of Venice is Pandoro,
a traditional sweet yeasted bread, your favorite is probably Tiramisu, yes that Tiramisu which
eventually spread throughout Italy and the rest of Europe.
The menu
celebrating the annual Hawaii sojourn of Isabella Zambon, Jessica Coro and
Filippo Coro
aperitif—3oz
Sommariva Prosecco
A TOAST TO DINO
Antipasti (served
family style)
Crispy Cauliflower-cumin aioli, zatar brown butter
Grilled Hau’ula
Baby Bok Choy-Marcona almonds, cranberries & shaved pastrami
Sliced Marinated
Pork—with charred asparagus
WINE: 3oz Corte Gardoni Bardolino “Chiaretto”
Garlic Shrimp
garlic, fennel,
sun dried tomatoes, white wine & clam jus
WINE: 3oz Corte Gardoni Bianco di Custoza
Roasted Beef
Braciole
stuffed with
prosciutto, raisins, herbs and Parmesan cheese and served with
oxtail ravioli,
Swiss Chard and pine nuts
WINE:
3oz 2009 Quintarelli Primofiore
Roasted Banana
& Chocolate Tiramisu
mango sorbet
Comments