The primary symbol that defines my day job is invariably
that wide, deep bowl containing the pounding device and just to make sure
you’re certain what profession I’m speaking of, the bowl usually has a
pronounced “Rx” labeled on the side. Yes, it’s an outdated symbol for a
profession that hardly compounds medications anymore as most medications are
readily available in tablet, capsule, liquid or injectable forms. In fact,
there are only a couple of pharmacies in the 50th that specialize in
compounded prescriptions. But that symbol still has a place in this pharmacist’s
kitchen, not for creating medication but for those luscious sauces and spreads named
after and created with the pounding device or pestle.
You say pesto, I say pistou
The sauce which usually comes to mind that’s named after
the pestle is that fragrant, fresh basil based sauce known as pesto which hails from Genoa, the
capital city of Liguria, Italy. I’m sure you’ve sample it simply as is tossed
with some penne, linguine or gnocchi and this ubiquitous sauce is as simple as
they come. Fresh basil, toasted pine nuts, fresh garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano
and Pecorino cheese and extra virgin olive oil with salt and black pepper. The
classic Pesto alla Genovese is the one pesto
you probably envision whether seeing it on a menu or whenever someone discusses
basil based sauces. Of course different regions in Italy create their own
versions of pesto whether it’s the
spicy red pepper based sauce in Pesto alla Calabrese or the tomato and almond
based sauce in Pesto alla Siciliana.
Of course, I’m sure the French would beg to differ that
Italian pesto is the classic basil
based sauce rather than their own pistou
which was created in Provence which also uses fresh basil, fresh garlic and olive
oil and may include cheese but never includes pine nuts or other nuts for that
matter. And though the Italians use pesto
primarily as a pasta sauce, the French use pistou
as an accompaniment to their regional soups.
Whichever version you favor, making your own is a snap
especially when you employ the modern mortar and pestle, the food processor. It
does save a lot of time and elbow grease though for authenticity’s sake, you
would need to rename your creation Cuisinart alla Genovese. Because I normally
use a 7 cup food processor, I never really measure ingredients and mainly use
the capacity of the food processor bowl as my main measurement. First, add a ¼
cup of toasted pine nuts and 2 to 3 peeled cloves of fresh garlic and pulse
until it resembles rough crumbs. Fill half of the processing bowl with the
fresh basil, salt and black pepper to taste, ½ cup of Parmigiano-Reggiano or
Pecorino cheese then fill the rest of the processing bowl with the rest of the
fresh basil. Turn on the processor and drizzle somewhere between ½ to 2/3 cups
of extra virgin olive oil until the sauce reaches the consistency you desire.
You probably have stop at some point to reincorporate the residual pieces
adhering to the sides of the bowl. And I intentionally left out one ingredient
because it’s not just essential to Pesto Genovese but to any uncooked green or
red colored sauce. Vitamin C. Simply crush 3 to 4 grams (6 to 8 500mg tablets)
and sprinkle the powder between the two layers of fresh herbs. As an
antioxidant, Vitamin C slows the browning (caused by oxidation) of green and
red sauces.
My personal favorite isn’t made with basil at all but
with that “love it or hate” herb, cilantro. I personally flavor my cilantro
with food. There can never be too much cilantro in any dish. Period. My
personal version of cilantro pesto substitutes the pine nuts with macadamia
nuts (to support our local economy) and I also don’t add any cheese (but still
add the powdered Vitamin C). And if you love cilantro as much as I do, make
sure to include the cilantro stems as they contribute a lot more flavor than
leaves alone. You can use the finished cilantro pesto to sauce various pastas,
mixed with mayonnaise to create a luscious sandwich spread or follow the lead
of my better half and mix the cilantro pesto with equal parts of sweet chili
sauce (found in the Asian section of most supermarkets). She simply tosses it
with cooked and drained Barilla Protein Plus pasta for a great warm or cold
pasta course – I’ve added a little extra by including quickly poached shrimp to
the dish but any shellfish or sliced poultry would also work.
Unique “Pestles”
Though pesto is primarily thought of as a fresh herb,
garlic and oil concoction, remember that the name simply refers to the pounding
device usually accompanied by a pounding “bowl’ or mortar, not the ingredients
themselves. For instance, hummus isn’t just available in one pound containers
from Costco. I once sampled a Greek hummus at the Taverna Opa in Orlando,
Florida that was prepared tableside in a mortar with fresh garlic, lemon juice
and olive oil that my server pounded on the spot and served with toasted pita
wedges. I believe this would qualify as Hummus Pesto.
Or that rich and filling Cuban specialty known as mofongo
which is fried plantains mashed in a Cuban style mortar and pestle with garlic,
spices and crispy chicharrons or crispy roasted pork skin. Once again, mofongo
is prepared either with a personal sized mortar and pestles or industrial sized
versions that can feed a whole family. So the Cuban version would qualify as
Mofongo Pesto.
Japanese Pesto
The one Japanese form of “pesto” that everyone is
probably familiar with is that Oshogatsu specialty, Mochi Rice Pesto pounded
with that Japanese pestle or kine
while being hand turned in that Japanese mortar or usu. Too much work to pound your own mochi “pesto”? Then how about
downsizing a little to that other Japanese mortar and pestle, the suribachi and surikogi? You’ve never heard of a suribachi and surikogi?
I’ve sure you’ve seen them in Obaachan’s kitchen but just didn’t know what they
were called. The suribachi is simply a
stoneware bowl created with a rough interior surface to facilitate grinding
either medicinal roots or bark or simply grinding sesame seeds with the pestle
or surikogi. Now do you remember
watching Obaachan grinding sesame seeds in that funny looking saimin bowl?
Now that you remember what a suribachi and surikogi
are, how about sampling this sesame seed, tofu and miso “pesto” that’s
refreshing as a side or vegetable dish? Of course, since the inspiration for
this dish is pure Japanese, I can’t call it a pesto so I’ll it the Nippon
Surikogi (Japanese pestle).
Nippon Surikogi
2 tbsp sesame seeds, roasted and crushed
1 block of tofu, drained
½ tsp salt
1 & 1/2 tsp sugar
3 tbsp miso
4 to 5 large heads of Manoa lettuce torn into small
pieces
Boiled and sliced konnyaku (optional)
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