For this year’s Hawaii Food and Wine Festival we simply
opted for the Masters of Meursault wine tasting at the Halekulani on Saturday
morning. The main focus was on those exquisite white Burgundies of Domaine
Antoine Jobard though there were several Domaine Roulot’s and one Coche Dury as
counterpoint wines. If you’ve never sampled the wines of Jobard, they started
with Antoine’s father Francois Jobard. Francois produced reductive white
Burgundy that literally needed years of aging – some 20 years or more - then
needed decanting after uncorking for another several hours before they “blossomed”
in the glass. That’s why most consumers usually purchase other producers of
white Burgundy. If you sampled a Jobard too young or if you didn’t decant the
wine, it would simply be a ‘tight” wine that didn’t offer much character. If
you did let it age and decanted the bottle, you were rewarded with an ever evolving
wine throughout the duration of the evening. On Saturday morning, a panel of
four Master Sommeliers including Roberto Viernes, Richard Betts, Jason Heller
and Joseph Spellman along with Antoine Jobard led the tasting panel featuring
19 wines. Yes, you read that right, NINETEEN wines!
The tasting was conducted in five flights starting with various
vintages of the Jobard “En La Barre” series which are on the lowest elevation
right off of the backyard of the Jobard home. All of the bottles were from magnum from Antoine Jobard's personal wine collection:
2012 Domaine Antoine Jobard “En La Barre” en Magnum
2009 Domaine Antoine Jobard “En La Barre” en Magnum
2006 Domaine Antoine Jobard “En La Barre” en Magnum
2004 Domaine Antoine Jobard “En La Barre” en Magnum
Next up was a mixed flight of Domaine Roulot "Les Tillets" including two from magnum along with the one Coche Dury:
2013 Coche Dury Meursault
2013 Domaine Roulet “Les Tillets”
2010 Domaine Roulet “Les Tillets” en Magnum
2007 Domaine Roulet “Les Tillets” en Magnum
Then various vintages of the Jobard “Poruzot” 1er Cru
wines with three vintages from magnum which are grown on slightly higher elevation:
2012 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Poruzot” 1er Cru en
Magnum
2009 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Poruzot” 1er Cru
2006 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Poruzot” 1er Cru en
Magnum
2004 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Poruzot” 1er Cru en
Magnum
Then various vintages of the Domaine Roulot “Porusot” 1er cru wines with two vintages from magnum:
2011 Domaine Roulet “Meursault-Porusot” 1er Cru
2009 Domaine Roulet “Meursault-Porusot” 1er Cru en Magnum
2007 Domaine Roulet “Meursault-Porusot” 1er Cru en Magnum
Finishing with several vintages of the Jobard “Genevrieres”
1er cru wines:
2012 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Genevrieres” 1er
Cru
2009 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Genevrieres” 1er
Cru
2006 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Genevrieres” 1er
Cru
2004 Domaine Antoine Jobard “Meursault-Genevrieres” 1er
Cru en Magnum
Surprisingly, my favorite vintage for all 3 Jobard flights
was the 2006 which often was written off by wine writers as an “off” year. And
it wasn’t just me as several of the Masters also enjoyed the 2006 wines.
Antoine Jobard could only recall 2006 as having some botrytis in that vintage
so he had to finish picking within a four day span (usually harvest occurs over
several weeks). I had all 3 Roulot "Les Tillets" and the Coche Dury with identical scores though the 2007 "Meursault-Porusot had an edge on the other Roulot vintages. Richard Betts also asked Antoine why some bottles had standard
capsules and why some had waxed capsules to which he replied, the waxed
capsules are from his personal library of wines not meant to be sold as he felt
waxed capsules were better for aging the wines.
Then on Saturday evening, Master Sommelier Chick Furuya
hosted Antoine and Charlotte Jobard for a private dinner at Vino featuring this
menu:
appetizer trio
Tomato Salad
pipikaula, Maui onions & tomato vinaigrette
Grilled Alii Mushrooms
chimichuri & truffle aioli
Moroccan Carrots
cumin aioli, pickled local turnips
2004 Paul Bara Comtesse Marie
first
Scallop Dore
squid ink pasta, clam jus & red jalapenos
wine recommendations: Chardonnay
1997 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
2004 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
1997 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres
1997 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Blagny
second
Shrimp Uovo
fresh tarragon, lemon ricotta cheese & brown butter
wine recommendations: Chardonnay
2000 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru
Les Genevrières
1999 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru
Les Genevrières
2001 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru
Les Genevrières
third
Crispy Organic Chicken Confit
truffled yukon gold potato puree, grilled Ali’i mushrooms & Moroccan carrots
wine recommendations: Pinot Noir
2005 Francois Jobard La Piece Sous le Bois Blagny
1999 Francois Jobard La Piece Sous le Bois Blagny
1999 Francois Jobard Bourgogne
main
Sous Vide Pork Belly
Kahuku corn & mushroom ragu, sage, garlic demi & gremolata
wine recommendations: Pinot Noir
2000 Francois Jobard La Piece Sous le Bois Blagny
1989 Lynch Bages
sweet
Expresso Panna Cotta
Kahlua crème anglaise & chocolate gelato
1990 Chateau d’Yquem
Invited guests brought various vintages of Jobard wines –
older vintages were labeled as Francois Jobard, some as Francois et Antoine Jobard
and since 2008, they are simply labeled as Antoine Jobard. The wines that diners BYO follow the description of each course. There also were "bonus" wines brought that aren't listed from the Jobard estate.
During the morning tasting at the Halekulani, Monsieur Jobard spoke in francais as he explained that his english wasn't very good so Roberto Viernes translated. However during the evening dinner, none of the diners was fluent in francais so Monsieur Jobard was initially a little reserved. But with a little more wine sampling, he and his wife eventually warmed up and conversed with everyone. And yes, his wines are that good and I'll continue to purchase them whenever they're available...
During the morning tasting at the Halekulani, Monsieur Jobard spoke in francais as he explained that his english wasn't very good so Roberto Viernes translated. However during the evening dinner, none of the diners was fluent in francais so Monsieur Jobard was initially a little reserved. But with a little more wine sampling, he and his wife eventually warmed up and conversed with everyone. And yes, his wines are that good and I'll continue to purchase them whenever they're available...
Comments