To close out 2016, we were very fortunate to secure a
table at Fete restaurant in Chinatown to sample the cuisine of the butcher of
Panzano, Riccardo Ricci. Don’t butchers simply reduce an animal carcass to
manageable pieces? Well, not butchers from the village of Panzano in the heart
of the Chianti region. Especially when said butchers are the protégé of world
superstar butcher Dario Cecchini.
The Beginning
Riccardo Ricci was the star of the evening at Fete
restaurant though the story actually begins with the Cecchini clan who for
eight generations have been butchers in the village of Panzano. Currently,
Dario Cecchini runs the family’s shop, Antica Macelleria Cecchini along with
three restaurants situated around the shop using the beef and pork that his
family butchers. And though most of the US only got to know Dario Cecchini
several years ago on one of Tony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” episodes, he
already was in demand worldwide for his knowledge in dismembering a whole animal,
cooking that whole animal from nose to tail and perpetuating the recipes from
Tuscany. All while quoting Dante and the Blues Brothers in the same sentence.
While he wasn’t present on this evening, his knowledge and presence were
evident in his protégé, Riccardo Ricci.
The Dinner
There was some last minute shuffling as the dinner
originally was meant to be hosted at Il Lupino in Waikiki as local Chef Donato
Loperfido who was a consultant at Il Lupino provided the wines through his
Flavors of Italy import business. Apparently Chef Donato and Il Lupino parted
ways after the original plans were made and thankfully Chef Robynne Maii and
Chuck Bussler of Fete restaurant graciously agreed to host the event. And
though the swine wasn’t flown from Tuscany, it was the next best thing, David
Wong’s pork from Chef Bob McGee of Pono Pork LLC.
Festa del Maiale
(the pig feast)
Pinzimonio di
Verdure con Profumo del Chianti
(raw vegetables
with Chianti salt)
Crostini di Burro
del Chianti
(Chianti butter
toast)
Tonno del Chianti
alla Marinara
(Chianti tuna with
capers, onions and tomatoes)
Pici al Ragu
Toscano
(Pici with Tuscan
meat sauce)
Arista in
Porchetta
(roasted pork)
&
Fagioli all’olio
Extravergine
(Tuscan beans with
olive oil)
Scamerita al Fiore
di Finocchio
(pork chops with
fennel pollen)
&
Patate al
Rosmarino e Salvia
(roasted potatoes
with rosemary and sage)
Torta all’olio Evo
(olive oil cake)
The evening started fairly quiet though we benefited from
an adjacent fellow diner who was raised just outside of Venice so she gave us
insight on some of the dishes served as well as translate what Riccardo Ricci
was saying as he wandered through the dining area. Of course, as the evening
progressed with more wine and food, diners got progressively merrier (and
louder) culminating with Riccardo in his minion goggles presenting the crowning
glory of the evening, his Arista in Porchetta by standing on a chair in the
middle of the restaurant and shouting “porchetta” while holding the tray with
that glorious roasted pork.
The opening course was basically a mixed crudité of fresh
veggies though the olive oil to dip was very buttery and a lot better quality
than your basic EVOO. The Chianti butter toast was a food revelation… no, make
that an exhilaration. I initially thought it was bone marrow flavored with
rosemary on toast but later found out that it was lardo or fat from the pig’s
back that was massaged to soften and eventually put through a meat grinder and
spiced with rosemary, salt and pepper then spread on toast like “butter”. Yes,
it was worth every calorie!
The Chianti tuna wasn’t seafood at all but slowed cooked
pork simmered in its own fat (like pork rillettes) and served with onions and
tomatoes. Because it was slowed cooked, it was so tender you could chew it with
your gums. Apparently, Riccardo’s mentor Dario Cecchini created the dish based
on a classic Tuscan recipe and named it using the traditional Tuscan double entendre.
Pork or tuna, it was good!
The pasta course featured perfect al dente “straws” of
pasta (thick spaghetti with a hollow interior) in a basic red sauce. The chili
in the sauce did sneak up on me wetting my brow with a couple of drops of
perspiration but its simplicity with fresh tomato sauce and rich pork was more
than satisfying.
Then the porchetta! A moment of silence please. I’ve had
my fair share of porchetta which is usually pork loin, butt or shoulder rolled
in pork belly that’s slow roasted but often the belly section is still a little
chewy and the skin a little tough. However, this version was perfecto! Very
moist meat with fat that melted on the palate and crispy skin. Along with the
velvety white beans with rosemary, it was the hit of the evening.
The classic Tuscan pork chops seasoned with fennel pollen
unfortunately were served after the porchetta so my mind was still on the
succulent pork belly. And these chops weren’t your classic chops from the loin
but were from a cut by the pig’s neck which most Tuscans feel provides the most
flavorful meat. And they were very juicy and with a very rich flavor.
Finally the evening ended with an olive oil cake served
with an olive oil gelato. The gelato was another food epiphany as it was like
consuming frozen olive oil cream. In fact as the gelato melted, a pool of olive
oil glistened on the plate.
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