What supposedly was created by John Montagu, the 4th
Earl of Sandwich to allow him to continue playing his favorite card games while
still enjoying a meal, the glorious combination of proteins or other fillings
between baked vehicles whether they be bread, biscuits, pita or even
new-fangled starches like rice or noodle buns, the sandwich has earned its
place on the culinary table including the Gochiso Gourmet’s table.
I’m but no means a classically trained chef, but I
learned the art of the sandwich from one of my earliest cooking mentors, Mom.
Mom was one of the original carbaphobic consumers and though she cooked rice
every day, it was mainly for Dad and the rest of the family. And when she did
consume bread, it wasn’t just any slice of bread but Hollywood bread straight
from the freezer. Once I was well into my collegiate education majoring in
Nutritional Science, I realized the reason why Hollywood bread was marketed as
low calorie… the slices were only ¼ to 3/8 inches thick! Though that marketing
approach worked with the original Mrs. T. And because the slices came straight
from the freezer, they had to be toasted to create Mom’s sandwich. Which is one
my personal mantras for the perfect sandwich… toasted bread.
The Right Bread
Okay, it doesn’t have to be toasted Hollywood bread. In
fact, I don’t even know if they still make Hollywood bread but don’t fret,
there are basketfuls of great breads in the marketplace, even at your local
supermarket. For the prototypical sandwich, I prefer bread with a light crackly
crust but not so crackly that it ends up cutting your upper palate. And within
that crackly crust, I prefer a chewy interior flecked with uneven air bubbles
which is the mark of a perfectly risen dough. And of course, before sandwich
construction commences, both slices must be lightly toasted which can be
accomplished via an oven or even on a flattop or grill.
I also do enjoy miniature rolls but those sandwich
applications are usually designated for specific sandwiches like Italian beef,
oyster Po-Boys or banh mi. And while pretzel buns or brioche buns complement
any burger, I don’t classify any burger as a sandwich (even if they are cooked
ground beef patty sandwiches) as I place burgers and encased tube meats in
their own categories.
Lubrication
Lubricating both slices of your chosen bread is also
critical for maximal sandwich enjoyment. I usually select a mayonnaise based
dressing along with a second form of lubrication based on the protein within. In
fact, I feel that there’s only one sandwich which should employ just one basic
form of lubrication. A BLT which simply should be dressed with plain mayonnaise
on each slice. Period. All other sandwiches should be dressed with distinct
spreads. For instance, I’ll dress the bottom slice of bread with a smoked
tomato mayonnaise for any smoked proteins while it might be a honey mustard
mayonnaise for lightly cooked poultry or pork or a basic tartar sauce for
seafood. The top slice of bread can be dressed with anything from a course fig
compote to a thickened marinara to basic guacamole or hummus again depending on
the protein selected.
And I do feel that where each dressing is slathered makes
a difference in your sandwich enjoyment. Since the dressing placed on the top
slice of bread faces your tongue, that dressing plays the role of rhythm versus
the dressing on the bottom slice which is more harmony to the main ingredient,
the protein. Therefore I always slather the heartier dressing on the top slice.
Accoutrements
I know that most basic sandwiches usually contain lettuce
and/or tomato slices but this is where sandwich Architecture 101 is critical.
You see, if you slather mayonnaise on the bottom slice followed by a flat slice
of lettuce topped with tomato slices, you’re immediately asking for sandwich
failure. The mayonnaise will simply provide lubrication for that flat slice of
iceberg lettuce to slide on with its shiny surface acting like Teflon for that tomato
slice. As soon as you take your first bite, you’re likely to create that
lettuce-tomato-protein “Frisbee” that simply jettisons out of the sandwich. So
while accoutrements primarily provide complementary flavors, they also can lead
to sandwich disasters if not place properly.
So while I might include lettuce (even iceberg lettuce)
and tomato slices in a sandwich (as in a BLT), I’ll roughly shred the lettuce
to disrupt their Teflon texture and I’ll place the tomato slices on opposite
ends of the protein.
But why limit your creation simply to lettuce and
tomatoes? Smoked proteins whether beef, pork or poultry all benefit from the
crisp texture and acidic bite of a nice slaw. Italian beef always marries well
with giardinera and sautéed peppers and thinly sliced sweet onions enhances
most proteins especially when placed over the mayonnaise based dressing (like a
good tartar sauce).
The Protein
This is where the standard sandwich usually contains the
thinly, deli-sliced cold cut options found at the supermarket and while you can
create great sandwiches with these ready to use options, the world of proteins
are so much more than Oscar Meyer. I’ll admit that I do enjoy my fair share of
animal protein between two slices of bread whether it is of the Oscar Meyer
variety or if it’s thinly sliced pork tenderloin with a fig compote and spicy
mustard, pulled smoked pork with a vinegary slaw or smoked then flaked tuna
mixed with mayonnaise like the usual canned variety. And who says that only
tuna can be mixed with mayonnaise for the perfect protein salad? Chopped
lobster and celery with mayonnaise also makes a mighty tasty sandwich. Or even
leftover roast beef, pork or poultry especially when combined with a spiced
mayonnaise. Like a barbecue sauce spiced mayo with chopped beef or a grilled
stone fruit spiked mayo with chopped roasted pork or a curry enhanced mayo with
chopped roasted chicken.
And proteins don’t have to strictly be animal based
protein. Several years ago I created a vegetarian “BLT” employing smoked tofu
patties instead of bacon intensifying the smoky flavors with a smoked tomato
and onion mayonnaise. Sometimes the protein is also the lubrication as in the
case of my hummus sandwich garnished with thinly sliced red onion and fresh
cilantro – I also mix slightly smashed whole garbanzo beans (or other beans) to
the hummus to give it a little more texture or my fat free cream cheese
“sammies” adorned with minced sun dried tomatoes, chopped Kalamata olives and
cooked eggplant slices. But if you still need the appearance of meat, there’s always
a host of vegetarian bean and rice based patties you can find at your local
supermarket freezer section – in fact, my local Safeway sells vegan “hamburger”
patties that cook and look like ground beef patties.
So the next time you plate those two slices of bread,
think more than just peanut butter and jelly or tuna salad. Jazz up your
sandwich with repurposed leftovers or simple refrigerator standards. After all,
we all deserve to eat like Kings… or at least Earls…
And I haven’t even touched on those sandwiches created with submarine rolls… also known as hoagies or those sandwiches employing round buns encasing meat patties… also known as hamburgers but that would be another column. And if you are interested in submitting your ideal hamburger recipe for the annual Sutter Home Build a Better Burger contest, the entry deadline is at the end of this month…
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