Sustainability 201



For the past several years, I’ve always tried to purchase from local purveyors since more of my hard earned dollars remains in the 50th. I do realize that some of that money always remains in the 50th regardless if the produce was grown in the continental US supporting the bottom line of some mainland supermarket. That purchase still supports the local employee who works that produce section or the local cashier who processed my purchase. But if you support local businesses and purchase local products, the employees working for that company benefit, the grower or farmer who produced that product benefits and even the company managers, executives and owners return some of dollars by spending locally for their own personal needs.

I actually thought about all of this recently after a totally unrelated experience. As you’re aware, I do enjoy a nice glass of vino. In fact after the Hawaii Legislature approved direct wine shipments into the 50th, I created my fair share of accounts at various wineries in California and Washington. If you’re lucky, you immediately are offered wine directly from the winery, if not the winery places you on a wait list. And though I’m always happy to receive a wine shipment, for the past year or so, I’ve noticed the shipping costs have risen to the point where I have to reassess whether I’ll continue purchasing my annual allocation of wine. And while the 50th does have its own local winery – Maui Wine Co on the slopes of Haleakala, I do want to sample wine from more than a single winery.

Which got me thinking about other food products (yes, I do view wine as a food product, not an over-the-counter sedative). What if we have to depend on shipping all of our food into the 50th? What happens when those shipping costs become prohibitive?

Hawaii Grown and Raised

For starters, two of my favorite protein purveyors are still holding their own in the 50th. Julius Ludovico still sells his naturally raised chickens at the Blaisdell Farmer’s Market every Wednesday from 4pm to 7pm and delivers to limited locations by contacting him directly. He also still sells those “other” parts that I favor, namely the hearts, livers and gizzards.

J. Ludovico Farms
Julius Ludovico
(808) 536-8386

I also eagerly anticipate Chef Bob McGee’s venture into retails sales of his Pono Pork products. He should be gearing up for home cook portions (not whole sides of swine) of David Wong’s Mountain View Farms naturally raised pork just as this column goes to print or shortly thereafter. If you can’t wait, you can contact him directly as he also delivers to limited locations on Oahu.

Pono Pork, LLC
Robert McGee
(808) 457-0997

Raised, processed and sold locally directly from the Kualoa Ranch Visitor Center twice a month, the beef is hormone, steroid, and antibiotic free and can be ordered directly from their website. Of course, it does require a drive to the beautiful Windward coast but I would consider that a bonus.

Kualoa Grass Fed Beef
(808) 748-3209

Local Produce

The 50th is expanding what’s locally grown compared to the days when we simply grew sugarcane, pineapples and papayas. Just look at your weekly supermarket ads as they all highlight whether the produce is locally grown.

Long beans
Green bell peppers
Chinese cabbage
Broccoli
Watercress
Head cabbage
Bok choy
Kai choy
Ong choy
Okinawan sweet potato
Butternut squash
Daikon
Corn
Tomatoes
Long eggplant
Bittermelon
Cucumber
Zucchini
Green onion
Sweet round onions
Bean sprouts
Fresh herbs



Therefore, no matter what type of cuisine you favor, you should be able to regularly purchase these items to support our local economy. Personally, the only other fruits and veggies I need are apples, pears, carrots and celery then I would be able to only purchase locally grown products.

The Carbs

Since there’s no wheat production locally, we do have to settle for locally processed or produced products though the 50th does have baker extraordinaire, Chris Sy who creates several different breads at his Kaimuki bakery, Breadshop.

Breadshop
3408 Waialae Ave
Honolulu, HI 96816
Wed – Sun 10am – 5pm

And low and behold, while there’s no rice cultivation in the 50th, we do have a store that freshly mills heirloom rice varieties that supplies several local restaurants but also sells directly to the public. The Rice Factory in Kakaako usually carries 4 or 5 heirloom varieties of rice brought in from small growers in Japan and will mill your rice to 100% (pure white rice), 70%, 50% or 0% (pure brown rice) right while you’re waiting in the store.

The Rice Factory
955 Kawaiahao St, Bay 1
Honolulu HI 96814
(808) 800-1520
Mon, Wed-Sat 10am – 6pm
Sun 10am – 4pm

Of course, you could also try to shift some of your carb consumption to locally grown sweet potatoes or breadfruit – and I actually plan on planting a breadfruit tree in my yard as Chef Kenney’s ulu (breadfruit) side dishes at Mud Hen Water has me hooked!

To get you started on your quest to purchase local, I’ve included a simple dish I first sampled about 10 years ago in the Bay Area at Cucina Restaurant and Wine Bar. The Zucchini Carpaccio was simply thin ribbons of fresh zucchini, flat leaf parsley, toasted slices of almonds and flaked pecorino cheese but the salty, herbal and crisp textures had me wanting for more. But with local zucchini and fresh parsley available all year round, there’s no need to be wanting anymore.



2 large zucchini, grated on a box grater – I place them between cool paper towels to absorb excess moisture
About ½ cup of roughly chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
About ½ cup of lightly toasted sliced almonds (Trader Joe’s sells 1 lb packages)
About ¼ to ½ cup sahved Parmigiano Reggiano (I prefer parmesan to pecorino but any hard shaved cheese will do)

Toss all 4 ingredients and serve as a salad or side course.

I first published the grilled version of this salad in my sister column, The Gochiso Gourmet. But sometimes fresh corn is best left as is in the natural raw state. A nice way to utilize three locally grown vegetables to serve as either a salad or side course.



Raw Corn Salad

¾ cup fat free sour cream
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
¾ teaspoon smoked salt (available at gourmet markets)
3 cup fresh corn kernels (about 5 ears – I use Chef Chiarello’s tip placing one end of the corn cob in the hole on a Bundt pan then slice the kernels directly into the pan)
Fresh ground black pepper to taste
1 cup finely chopped red or green bell pepper
1 cup finely chopped green onions

Combine first 3 ingredients in a large bowl, stirring with a whisk. Add corn and remaining ingredients, stirring to combine. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours before serving.

So for the Year of the Dog, I hope you’ll also embrace supporting and purchasing local to make us less dependent on the uncontrollable forces of the outside world. And with this New Year, from Ryan’s Table to you and yours, I wish you a healthy, happy and peaceful 2018. Shinmen akemashite omedetou gozaimasu! Or to embrace local, Hauoli makahiki hou! So in this Year of the Dog… or inu, it’s time to pay a visit to the newest local brewery, Inu Island Ales. But that’s another column…

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