Supposedly, the monk Dom Perignon of the Abbey of
Hautvillers who is credited with creating Champagne actually was charged with
removing the bubbles in still wine as the bubbles were considered a flaw and
the increased pressure in the bottle caused many a bottle to burst in the wine
cellar. Thank goodness, he wasn’t successful in his original mission as a
chilled glass of sparkling wine whether it’s Champagne, Cava or Prosecco is
just what’s needed during those dog days of summer… or any occasion.
“Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!”
- Dom Perignon
True Champagne
Production
Since Champagne is usually thought of as the standard
against which all other sparkling wines are compared, I’ll highlight the
production of Champagne. Originally created from Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris,
Arbane and Petit Meslier, most Champagnes are now produced from varying
proportions of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. The initial wine
created from these grapes usually isn’t palatable at all as it usually is very
acidic when first fermented then it’s bottled with additional yeast and sugar
to create a natural secondary fermentation in the bottle. To remove the
expended dead yeast cells, the bottle is gradually “riddled” or turned and
tilted until it’s almost upside down so that the yeast settles in the neck of
the bottle just under the cork. The neck is then quickly frozen in a brine
solution and the cork expelled taking with it, the sediment. The bottle is then
topped off it varying degrees of a sugar solution (dosage) depending on how dry the cellar master wants the finished
Champagne. Previously, this method of Champagne production was termed methode champenoise but Champagne
producers lobbied the EU to limit that terminology strictly wines produced in
Champagne. Other EU sparkling wine producers – even if using the exact
production techniques – must use methode
traditionnelle on their labels. Of
course, since the US isn’t part of the EU, many domestic sparkling wine
producers still label their wine as produced in the methode champenoise. That’s why you also see boxed Chablis and
Burgundy in this country which is as French as Chevrolet…
"Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne
is just right."
- Mark Twain
Spanish Bubbly
Though all Cava or Spanish sparkling wine is produced in
the same manner as their French cousins, the difference is in the base grapes
as the primary grapes are Macabeu, Parellada and Xarello. Cava is also similar
to Champagne (all Champagne is from the Champagne region) as most Cava is
produced in one region, the Penedes area in Catalonia (only about 5% of Cava is
produced outside of this region). However, Rose Cava is only produced from red
grapes and a blending of grapes isn’t allowed and Rose Cava is made in the soignée method where the pressed juice
of red grapes are allowed to sit on the skins longer to give the final wine a
reddish tinge. Rose Champagne often are a blend of different grapes and the
reddish tinge simply comes from adding still Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier.
Also like Champagne, Cava is available from sweet all the
way to bone dry but because Cava doesn’t have the notoriety as Champagne, often
costs a lot less for the same quality of wine. Therefore while I won’t use a
$50 bottle of Champagne for a sparkling wine cocktail, I’m more willing to use
a $25 bottle of Cava for the same purpose.
“I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad.
Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it
obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am.
Otherwise, I never touch it -- unless I'm thirsty.”
- Lily Bollinger, House of Bollinger Champagne
Italian Bubbly
Italy’s tastiest and most common sparkler, Prosecco is
both the name of the grape (also known as Glera) and the finished sparkling
wine. However unlike Champagne or Cava, Prosecco is produced via the Charmat-Martinotti or bulk process in
nine Italian provinces between Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia. The limited
Prosecco Superiore is only produced in the Treviso province on the hills of
Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. Some sparkling wine producers employ the Charmat-Martinotti process to simply
save money as the secondary fermentation occurs in large, stainless steel tanks
instead of individual bottles but Prosecco uses this process to preserve the
fresh, vibrant qualities of Prosecco. And because this bulk process isn’t as
expensive to produce, most Prosecco are very affordable so I don’t hesitate to
create cocktails such as the Bellini (Prosecco and peach puree or nectar),
Negroni s’bagliato (substituting Prosecco for gin in a standard Negroni) or a
French 75 (gin, Prosecco, lemon juice and simple syrup).
"I only drink Champagne on two occasions, when I am
in love and when I am not."
- Coco Chanel
Domestic Sparklers
Most of the French Champagne houses have taken root in
Napa Valley including Moet & Chandon (Domaine Chandon), G.H. Mumm & Cie
(Mumm Napa), Taittinger (Domaine Carneros), Louis Roederer (Roederer Estate)
and Piper Heidsieck (Piper Sonoma). Even Spanish Cava producer, Freixenet has
Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards in Sonoma County. While better domestic
sparkling wine employ the same method
champenoise as in France, the aging requirements are usually a little
longer in France and while the high end domestic sparklers can rival Champagne
in quality, so too does the cost. So I usually purchase lower priced domestic
sparklers especially when creating cocktails but still reach for equally priced
Champagne instead of high end domestic sparkling wine to sip as is.
"Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast? Doesn't
everyone?"
- Noel Coward
Sparkling
Cocktails
Sometimes, you want more than a simple Mimosa with
sparkling wine and orange juice so how about these sparkling cocktails?
Spritz Veneziano
(aka Aperol Spritz)
2 oz Prosecco
1 & ¼ oz Aperol
Splash of club soda
Combine in a balloon glass and garnish with an orange
wedge
Champagne Cocktail
Add 3 dashes Angostura bitters on a sugar cube
Drop into a Champagne flute then add 1/3 oz Cognac and 3
oz Champagne
Garnish with an orange peel and a Maraschino cherry
Amer Mousseux
From Bouchon in Yountville; shake 1 oz Cynar, ½ oz
Campari and ½ oz fresh orange juice then strain into a Champagne flute. Top
with 3 oz sparkling wine.
“Only the unimaginative can fail to
find a reason for drinking champagne.”
–Oscar Wilde
I'd like to modify what Oscar Wilde
noted :
“Only the unimaginative can fail to
find a reason for drinking sparkling wine.”
–The Gochiso Gourmet
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