I’ve been to the 50th’s renditions of the
speakeasy – drinking establishments originally started during prohibition to
discreetly allow the consumption of alcoholic beverages during a period when
simple possession of said beverages were illegal. All you needed to know was
the location of the speakeasy and the secret password to gain entry. But until
last month, I’d never been to speakeasy restaurant. Until our superlative meal
at 22Kailua.
Another Gem for
the Eastside
After running the former Izakaya Kohnotori alongside Chef
Takashi Ando until it closed in early 2018, Chef Taka Kijima intended on
retiring but after sampling several Japanese restaurants on the Eastside,
decided that residents needed authentic Japanese cuisine that he found lacking.
So, after initially starting a simple coffee shop in the heart of Kailua a
stone’s throw from the Oneawa St & Kailua Rd intersection, decided to get
back into the kitchen to create omakase meals for discriminating diners.
But since he declared himself semi-retired, didn’t want to get back into the
full-blown drama of the restaurant business which included assistant chefs not
showing up for work or servers perpetually calling in sick. So, he created a
very intimate space for just 6 diners per evening located in the back of his 22
Kailua coffee shop.
So Why Speakeasy?
Well, securing a seat isn’t as simple as going on
OpenTable to reserve a table nor can you simply call the coffee shop for a
reservation. You’ll first receive Chef Taka’s cellphone number then text him
which day or date you desire and he’ll respond with dates and times that are
available. Once confirmed, he’ll also text you a sample menu which consists of
about 8 varied courses, 11 to 12 pieces of nigiri sushi and dessert for $80.
He’ll also inquire about any food allergies and offer a customized menu if your
wallet is a little fatter than usual. Therefore, unlike the usual restaurant
chef who must show up to work during the stated business hours, Chef Taka can
take off days (or weeks) here and there since reservations are made directly
with him. And serving just 6 diners allows him to interact with each diner for
each course instead of furiously plating multiple dishes hidden in the kitchen.
The Basic Menu
His basic menu/speakeasy is called Hana-Re (or Hana-Lei) which
means “separate place” in Japanese.
Koh no mono
Japanese cucumbers
pickled in barley miso
Ae-mono
Shira-ae or
spinach, carrots, konnyaku, mushrooms
in a tofu
sesame sauce
Suno-mono
marinated saba
with cucumber, iriko,
wakame with
vinegar and soy sauce gellee
quartet of ika,
Hokkaido scallop, ama-ebi and hamachi nigiri
Wan-mono
Chawan-mushi
with unagi, takenoko, shiitake
topped with ikura
quartet of takuan,
nasubi, shiitake and peas shoot nigiri
Ni-mono
braised daikon
with pork belly
topped with daikon
sprouts
Yaki-mono
butterfish misoyaki
with clams and shrimp
trio of saba,
unagi and tamago nigiri
Age-mono
shrimp, broccoli,
mushroom and hasu tempura
Shime
hot somen
noodles
coffee jelly with
whipped cream
The evening started with cucumber pickled in a miso-barley
which perked the taste buds for the following courses. A traditional shirae
was served next with spinach, konnyaku and carrots in a sesame-tofu
“dressing”. The marinated saba with wakame, cucumber, iriko
(baby sardines) and a duo of shoyu and vinegar gellee was the first
surprise of the meal which was both savory and refreshing at the same time! The
nigiri quartet of ika (squid), hotate (scallop), amaebi
(sweet raw shrimp) and hamachi (yellowtail) was perfect with the
Hakkaisan Yukimuro ginjo sake aged for three years in snow, one of two
bottles we brought to dinner. The chawan-mushi or egg custard was one of
my favorite dishes for the evening – fellow diners also commented that it had
the aroma of bacon but I think it was simply the grilled unagi (fresh
water eel) on the bottom that created the illusion of bacon. The house cured ikura
(salmon eggs) gave a nice pop of salinity to counter the rich custard – even
Chef Taka proudly proclaimed that chawan-mushi was one of his
specialties. Another quartet of nigiri sushi was next but they were all
vegetable nigiri with takuan (pickled daikon), nasubi
(pickled baby eggplant), shiitake and pea shots. The nasubi took
me back to my childhood visits to the Valley Isle where we’d always bring back
several bottles of those purple baby eggplant pickled in Lahaina. Chef Taka’s
braised pork belly on braised daikon was followed by his misoyaki
butterfish with clams and shrimp then the last trio of sushi – grilled saba,
unagi and tamago – sushi enthusiasts in the know often
order tamago first to judge the sushi chef’s skills. If it’s not up to
par, they’ll cash out and leave. Chef Taka’s tamago was spot on! The
savory courses concluded with a mixed assortment of tempura with batter
light enough that the Mrs. didn’t feel compelled to remove the fried batter
then ending with a hot somen dish with very flavorful broth. Dessert was
a coffee gellee with whipped crème – after all, 22 Kailua started as a coffee
shop. We along with our table mates were thoroughly sated after our omakase
meal and about the only constructive criticism I’d offer is that that head of
the amaebi could have been deep fried instead of simply used a garnish
for the butterfish misoyaki. We already have Chef Taka’s cellphone
number but you should also direct message Chef Taka on Facebook to reserve your
seat for his omakase meals.
22 Kailua
Hana-lei @ 22
22 Oneawa St
Kailua, HI 96734
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