The Humble Legume

During the initial phases of last year’s lockdown, there was a run-on dried starches, namely, rice, pasta and flour leaving even our local Safeway shelves bare. However, most hoarders neglected those non-traditional starches that also pack a good dose of protein and fiber, the legumes or beans. While we normally don’t consume a lot of rice, we do consume our fair share of pasta and to keep my sourdough starter alive, we always have flour in the form of all-purpose, whole wheat and bread in our pantry. But as far as legumes, we normally just stock the canned variety especially when they go on sale. But during the initial lockdown when flour and pasta weren’t options, lugging a basketful of canned beans can be a bit cumbersome (and heavy) so I converted to the dried variety. After all, it only takes an extra night of prep by soaking and cooking is more or less a breeze in a pressure cooker. Still a Bean Counter So, while there are several COVID vaccinations released for mass immunization and it looks light there’s light at the end of the COVID tunnel, we’re still creating dishes from our favorite dried legumes. In fact, because I’ve been noshing on more than my share of charcuterie during the stay-at-home orders, switching to vegetarian or vegan cuisine helps balance those excess I previously engaged in. After all, legumes do contain a good dose of soluble fiber that can help lower bad cholesterol, contain carbohydrates that don’t spike the blood sugar like traditional starches and are good sources of low saturated fat proteins.
Then after we ordered from Senia’s Takeway menu featuring the dishes of Portugal including a feijoada or traditional Brazilian bean stew with Rancho Gordo beans, I had to find to find the source of those delicious Rancho Gordo legumes. Which simply enough was on the Rancho Gordo website. Rancho Gordo is based out of Napa, California and specializes in heirloom varieties of beans that was first started by Steve Sando as a one-man operation at Farmer’s Markets then eventually expanded to a full warehouse and retail and mail order operation. They also partner with Mexican growers for their Rancho Gordo-Xoxoc Project highlighting not just heirloom Mexican bean varieties but also traditional Mexican herbs and spices as well as cooking implements.
Since the Midnight Black Bean is recommended for feijoada which set off my quest for these products, I give you my amalgam of feijoada, Portuguese bean soup and stew. Since my soups always invariably end up thick like stews, this is Ryan’s Portuguese Bean Stoup.
1 lb Midnight Black Bean (or any pound of beans you desire) soaked overnight then pressure cooked per package directions 3 cloves of minced garlic 3 large carrots, large dice One medium bunch celery, large dice 1 large onion, medium dice ½ medium head cabbage, roughly chopped Fresh ground black pepper to taste Two 14oz can chopped tomatoes One 8 ounce can tomato sauce 2 packages, Noh Hawaiian Style Portuguese Sausage Mix 1 cup elbow macaroni 3 tbsp dried cilantro (optional) 3 cups water, may need more based on desired thickness as macaroni cooks Olive oil Sauté the fresh garlic in the olive oil on medium-high just until it starts browning in about 3 to 5 minutes then add the fresh vegetables and black pepper until the vegetables soften, about another 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cooked beans, diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, Noh seasoning and water and bring back to a simmer for 5 minutes then add the dried macaroni (and dried cilantro) and simmer for the same length of time to cook the macaroni per the box instructions. Stir to every couple of minutes to prevent the macaroni from sticking to the bottom of the pot. This makes 21 cups of Portuguese Bean Stoup which is about 20 lunch servings or 10 dinner servings for the T’s. The version listed here is vegan since it’s meant to balance my dietary excesses of the holidays. If you maintained a balanced diet during the holidays, you could use chicken stock or stock from simmer smoked pork hocks instead of adding water as well as the traditional Portuguese and/or ham and feel free to use whichever type of bean you desire. I simply used black beans as they are the traditional bean in feijoada but any type of beans would also work. In fact, when I make this for non-vegan inclined family members, I usually simmer two smoked ham hocks for about 90 minutes and use that stock instead of water then peel the meaty bits off the hock and add it back to the stoup but if you do use this approach (or canned chicken stock), start with just one package of the Noh’s seasoning to make sure it isn’t too salty.
No Worry, Garbanzo Curry Early in my kitchen experimentation, I simply reached for bottled curry powder whenever a dish called for curry powder. Of course, curry powder isn’t a single spice but an amalgam of individual warm spices like cardamom, turmeric, cumin and coriander as well as many more individual spices. So, after using pre-packaged or bottled curry powders, I decided to take that leap of faith and create my own blend for this garbanzo or chickpea “curry”. Why garbanzo beans? For starters, you can find dried garbanzo beans in most supermarkets or used the canned variety if you’re pressed for time and two, whenever the protein in garbanzo beans, sesame seeds and wheat are combined, they form a complete protein eliminating the need for animal protein. This recipe for this Punjabi Chhole is just for 2 to 3 servings though if you use a 1-pound bag of dried garbanzo beans, simply double the quantity for everything else. To pressure cook garbanzo beans, soak them overnight then pressure cook for 5 to 6 minutes and let the pressure naturally dissipate (about 20 minutes) then drain and cook or refrigerate for future use. 2 tbsp cooking oil ¼ c fresh minced ginger 1 medium onion, chopped 3 plum tomatoes, diced ½ c fresh cilantro, chopped 3 cans drained and rinsed chickpeas 1 tsp garam masala 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground mustard seeds 1 & ½ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 pinch ground cloves Salt and ground black pepper to taste Heat oil and add ginger and onion and sauté for about 2 minutes. Add chickpeas then spices and toss frequently to prevent spices from burning, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and toss, about 1 minute. Can add 1 to 2 ounces of water or sweet wine if the mixture is too dry. Remove from heat and toss with cilantro.

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