Here in the 50th, when acquaintances engage in
idle chit-chat to pass the time, we call it “talk story”. It may be with a
relative that you haven’t seen for a while at a family gathering, it may be
with a friend on a weekend over a can or two of beer. Or it may simply be with
your regular letter carrier during their usual delivery during their water
break. Or in other cases, it may be with someone from the 50th every
four weeks chit-chatting about food, wine or nutrition. And yes, it’s been for
the past 20 years.
Back in 2003
When I started in 2003, this publication was known as the
Nichi Bei Times and was still primarily published in Japanese three times a
week with a weekly publication in English. Because the population of readers
who could read Japanese was diminishing, current Editor-in-Chief Kenji Taguma
wanted to expand the English version so my brother, Kyle Tatsumoto who penned
the Two Japanee Bruddahs column (along with Keith Kamisugi) suggested that
Kenji contact me since I previously wrote “Ryan’s Restaurant Reviews” in our
pharmacy school newsletter. And the rest is history.
The Rebirth
In late 2009, the Abiko family decided to cease
operations of the Nichi Bei Times though a plan to reincorporate as a non-profit
as the Nichi Bei Foundation was already in place. At this time, I had already
switched my day job (again) and started working for the Federal Government as a
clinical pharmacist at the Desmond T Doss Health Clinic (it was still called
the Schofield Barracks Health Clinic at the time). When I look back at the past
20 years, it’s remarkable that the Gochiso Gourmet has outlived my time as a
retail pharmacy manager at Times Supermarket Pharmacy, as a clinical pharmacist
at Kaiser Permanente (there is no Hawaii region anymore as Hawaii was absorbed
by the Southern California region) and as a clinical pharmacist at the Desmond
T. Doss Health Clinic. I guess the day job was really just to pay the bills and
the real passion was for food, wine and nutrition.
What has happened since 2003?
Ferry Building
Marketplace
The biggest food news in the Bay Area in 2003 was likely
the opening of the Ferry Building Marketplace. Once it opened, we always paid
homage to the foodie’s ultimate food shrine. A visit always required a first
stop at the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant which opened years ago at 9:00am (they
now open at 11:00am or 12:00pm) and it mainly served as the “appetizer” until
Hog Island Oyster Co opened at 11:00am. This was the one requisite stop that
Ms. S dreaded because we usually were the only visitors at the wine bar at
9:00am – my response was always “I’m on vacation and it’s always 5:00pm
somewhere in the world”. She would always insist on facing the back of the wine
shop so other shoppers couldn’t see her face – I proudly faced those shoppers
with the “yes, I’m sippin’ wine at 9:00am and life is good” face! Back then,
the wine bar encouraged you to bring food from other Ferry Building Marketplace
vendors – I would have brought a bento from Delica but walking to Delica would
have infringed on precious wine sippin’ time. So we usually just enjoyed the
cheeses from Cow Girl Creamery, charcuterie from Boccalone and epi from the
Acme Bread Co though sadly only Acme Bread Co remains.
Then after two dozen oysters at the Hog Island Oyster Co,
the last requisite stop was at Ciao Bella Gelato for their triple espresso
gelato – like a good cup-o-joe and dessert in one fell swoop!
Aziza
Though they opened 2 years earlier, Chef Mourad Lahlou
made a stir when he opened Aziza as he had no classical culinary training yet
fused classical Moroccan flavors with fresh California ingredients. And we were
hooked not just with the flavors but also that his cocktail list was meant to
pair with the meal – it wasn’t just something to sip on before the meal. I
still remember his Pear and Ginger Martini (highlighted in the December 2004
column). Though we haven’t sampled the food at Mourad, we do get to sample some
of his culinary influence as he’s besties with local Hawaii Chef Chris Kajioka
and they’ve partnered in a couple of restaurants in the 50th.
Dry Creek Kitchen
Celebrity Chef Charlie Palmer opened Dry Creek Kitchen in
Healdsburg about a year before my stint with the Nichi Bei Times started and it
transformed the sleepy Healdsburg Square into a dining destination. By the time
we sampled the food at Dry Creek Kitchen, we already were familiar with Chef
Palmer as we previously visited Aureole at the Mandalay Resort in Las Vegas.
And since then, we’ve been back on several occasions including just this past
Thanksgiving for the great food, great cocktails and excellent service – the
service we’ve received at Dry Creek Kitchen rivals that of the French Laundry.
Incanto
Incanto opened a year before I started writing for the
Nichi Bei Times though it didn’t receive acclaim until Chef Chris Cosentino
joined a year later. The High Priest of Offal usually offered several menu
selections based on these less-desired cuts but in his hands, makes them taste
like they should be the star of everyone’s table. We first dined there in 2009
and thoroughly enjoyed our meal (briefly highlighted in the November 2009
column) but sadly weren’t able to experience any of Incanto’s annual pure offal
meals as they closed 5 years later. Chef Cosentino did go on to open Cockscomb
which we also thoroughly enjoyed in 2019 but they sadly closed a year later.
The French Laundry
By the time I first penned the Gochiso Gourmet column,
The French Laundry had already been a dining mecca in Yountville for 10 years.
However, we were fortunate to secure a table – exactly on our 10th
anniversary no less – so our experience there was highlighted (November 2004
column) on my first restaurant article in the Bay Area (okay, Yountville is a
major extrapolation of the Bay Area proper). And to this day, I still remember
most of the meal from the superlative Oysters and Pearls featuring two neatly
trimmed poached oysters atop pearl tapioca with sabayon aside a dollop of
osetra caviar to the White Truffle Risotto with mounds of sliced fresh white
truffle to the Snake River Farms Wagyu Ribeye Cap to the Savoy “slaw” served
with the Forsterkase cheese course. And service like the wind… always felt but
never seen.
The Next 20 Years
If I’m still writing in 20 years, the content of the
columns may change quite a bit as I may only be talking about foods that
prevent constipation. Or my restaurant reviews may be limited to McDonalds and
Burger King. Or where to get discounted food on Senior Day. Or I may finally
toss health concerns aside and extol the virtues of having Eggs Benedict and
Champagne every morning, charcuterie and cheese every lunch and steak tartare
and red wine daily for dinner… followed of course by a cocktail… viewed on You
Tube…
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