I know everyone loves chocolate truffles – a creamy, chocolate ganache covered with more chocolate then rolled in cocoa powder. It’s like a chocolate cubed delight for all chocolate lovers. However, my favorite truffle is the natural namesake of that chocolatey delight, all species of that subterranean, ascomycete fungus, the true truffle.
What’s a Truffle?
Though there are several species of truffles used in the
culinary world, the three primary species are Tuber melanosporum or the
black Perigord truffle, Tuber aestivum or the black summer truffle found
throughout Europe and Tuber magnatum or the white truffle found in the
Piedmont region of Italy. Truffles are always associated with root systems of a
host of trees including hazel, oak, birch and beech in a symbiotic relationship.
The truffles provide micronutrients for the tree which in turn provides carbohydrates
for the truffle. In the wild, truffles are usually harvested between autumn and
winter with the assistance of our porcine and canine companions. Pigs can find
truffles without any training (I’ve read that supposedly the truffle aroma
mimics a sow in heat) but they will dig up the bounty and consume it so truffle
hunters must share some of the bounty with their pig or it will stop sniffing
out these delicacies. Dogs need to be trained to sniff out truffles but once
they find them, only need to be rewarded with a Milk-Bone. Since the harvest
season is so short and because the bounty can fetch a pretty penny (upwards of
$7000 per pound), truffle hunters carefully guard their favorite foraging
locations.
$7000 per Pound?
Are truffles worth it? I’ve sampled all three of the most
common truffle varieties and I’ll still shell out the dinero needed for a
truffle enhanced dish – retired and all if it’s those luscious white truffles
from Piedmont. For starters, white truffles are primarily served as is without
any cooking. They simply are shaved thinly over the dish and have this intense
mushroomy, garlic, shallot aroma – the intensity is not unlike that intense
aroma you get with gasoline. That same aromatic intensity but with the smell of
mushroom, garlic and shallot. Black truffles especially the Perigord truffles
are usually cooked into the dish though I have had black summer truffles thinly
shaved to finish the dish in the manner of white truffles. Perigord truffles
don’t have the same intensity as white truffles but they do have the perfume of
the best mushrooms you’ve ever sampled.
My First
Experience
My first experience wasn’t with the real McCoy at all.
Rather, it was with truffle oil which basically is olive oil infused with one
of the predominant compounds that give truffles their characteristic aroma or
2,6 dithiapentane. Sometimes manufacturers add bits of actual dried truffle so
they can label the olive oil as actually containing “real truffle” but these
bits are usually from lesser Tuber species. And though the food
celebrity that I have the utmost respect for – Tony Bourdain – stated that
truffle oil should be banned since it’s primarily from a laboratory, I disagree
as it allows the general public to sample something that is out of their
financial reach. Therefore, I still always have a bottle of truffle oil in my
refrigerator – yes, any truffle or 2,6 dithiapentane infused food whether it’s
oil, salt, powder or paste should be refrigerated as 2,6 dithiapentane is very
volatile so any opened container will eventually lose that truffle aroma which
refrigeration preserves for a longer period of time.
The Real McCoy
Though it’s been almost 20 years since that original
experience, I still vividly remember our only meal at The French Laundry in
Yountville. Initially it was simply because we secured a table on our 10th
anniversary which is almost like winning the lottery. Back then, you had to
call exactly 60 days before your desired date starting at 12:00pm Hawaii Time.
Ms. S used the landline while I was on my cellphone 60 days before our first
evening in Yountville. We both constantly got the busy signal then after about 40
minutes, a prerecorded message stated that all tables were booked for the day.
On the 2nd day, the same occurred though we were placed on a
waitlist after about 30 minutes but on the 3rd day we did the same
at 12:00pm and after about 10 minutes, Ms. S received a message to hold the
line and surprisingly we secured our table on our 10th anniversary
no less!
If you’ve never been to The French Laundry, they serve a
prix fixe multi-course menu though there are several supplements for an added
fee and when we were there, one supplement was a truffle risotto which we both
ordered. When the risotto was served, a 2nd server presented what
appeared to be a cigar humidor but as he opened it, the intense aroma of white
truffle filled the dining area. He then proceeded to shave that white truffle
over the risotto like there was no tomorrow. I almost wanted to tell him to
save some truffle for other diners. Almost, but I didn’t want to interfere with
his truffle shaving duties.
Since then, we have experienced a truffle themed dinner
back in the 50th at Bernini Honolulu as well as Poggio Trattoria in
Sausalito – they still offer annual white truffle themed dinners every year
that start in late October to November for about 1 week. Other than the prix
fixe truffle themed dinner for a single evening, Poggio also offers shaved
fresh white truffles on select dishes (back in 2019, it was a $45 supplement
for 5gm of white truffle). If we lived in the Bay Area, I would be on the
internet daily from mid-September just to make sure we could secure a table for
these annual white truffle dinners.
“Truffles” on a
Budget
As I mentioned, I always have a variety of truffle salt,
olive oil, powder and paste in my refrigerator but that doesn’t stop me from
indulging in other truffled products. For starters, Torres makes a great
truffle potato chip – I’ve tried other brands including Trader Joe’s, Kettle
and Lays but none have the perfume of the Torres brand. And whenever any
restaurant offers truffled fries, we’re there! And we’ve tried many truffle
infused cheeses – many infused with Perigord black truffles – but our favorite is
Boschetto al Tartuffo which combines the creaminess of a fresh mozzarella with
pronounced truffle flavor and aroma and makes a great truffled grilled cheese
when combined with truffled olive oil and truffle butter. Simply spread the
truffle butter on one side of white bread – preferably Japanese style shokupan
milk bread – then drizzle the non-buttered side with truffle oil and place
slices of the Boschetto al Tartuffo cheese on the oiled side. Griddle both
buttered sides until golden brown and slice into 8 pieces. Serve with an aged
Chardonnay or Champagne!
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